Australiana: Flora & Fauna Rustle Fall Designs in Sydney

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April 20th, 2015
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9:00 AM

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Sydney AW15 felt emphatically Australiana, as local designers took pride in their indigenous heritage and closeness to nature; working plant and animal fibers into both modern collections and couture pieces.

Romance Was BornRumored to have turned down a stint with John Galliano back in 2005 while attending the Fourth International Support  Awards in Italy, design besties Romance Was Born felt both far and close to Paris with their 'Bush Couture' AW15 collection. Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales are known for their out-of-this-world prints and color combinations - and extremely theatrical runway shows - but last week's elegant exploration of couture techniques felt rather grown up.  Set in the Art Gallery of NSW a psychedelic tribe of models ambushed the runway adorned in white-feathered cockatoo looks, a monochrome magpie dress, a black swan, and beaded Waratah capes.  Maxi-print gowns were hand-painted and embroidered, next to patchwork coats and silk-ruffle skirts. The collection adopted an indigenous aesthetic rich in the multi-colored hues of the 'dreamtime' rainbow serpent infusing typical Romance Was Born fabrics such as cotton, silk, and polyester and spandex blends, as well as neoprene and viscose crepe.Carla ZampattiCelebrating fifty years of operation, the matriarch of Australian fashion, Carla Zampatti celebrated her Sixties beginnings with luxury feminine silhouettes, large florals, and fabric folds and drapes. The timeline progressed to electric pinks and nitro greens, hues of the Eighties where Zampatti peaked, before evening fabrics flooded the runway such as silks, chiffon and satins, and tulle for headpieces.Christopher EsberChristopher Esber continued his favoring of relaxed tailoring for the Autumn woman. Inspired by the South Pacific Islands and the architecture of Ettore Sottsass, the collection hosted black-and-white hues with splashes of red. Esber's appreciation for linear, geometric shapes played out with an emphasis on the Memphis movement in design and his preference in executing on-point cuts and technical qualities. To fabric now, and a bouclé designed in partnership with a Switzerland-based mill created an appearance of toweling - inspired by the Aussie woman's state of beach residency. Pleats in A-line skirts became 3-D like buildings and fishnet-look splices - conspired with Swarovski - sat bejeweled alongside house-made crystals. Bec & BridgeFor AW15, Bec & Bridge created boho-luxury with a series of maxi dresses glitterized with Moroccan-look embelishments. Fishnet tops lead kimono-shaped robes in ethnic prints - each piece working over gladiator sandals in leather. It was the first time the duo, Becky Cooper and Bridget Yorston, offered swimwear, featuring oil-rainbowed snake prints, maillots and twisted shapes in Australian opal tones.Alice McCallDesign veteran, Alice McCall retained a playful, femininity for Fall. McCall focused on artisanal fabrication this season, exploring her usual lace across mini-frocks and playsuits in saccharine flower hues. Contoured knits, metallic brocade jacquards, bespoke lace and refined crochet also featured for a garden party theme that seemed likely to attract the quirkiness of another famous Alice onto the runway - but from Wonderland, that is.