For two days, at the Italian Trade Commission offices in New York, a series of presentations saw C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy) showcase an array of fashion, textiles and materials created by firms using smarter sustainable technology. C.L.A.S.S. divides itself up into five separate categories: naturals and organics (textiles made from wool, silk cashmere, cotton, linen, hemp, vegetable tanned and dyed leather); repurposed and recycled (re-used polyester, recycled polyamide, cashmere, cotton, denim or wool); innovative renewables (cloth made from new biopolymers, paper, milk protein, soy, seaweed, wood pulp fiber, bamboo, and crab’s carapace fiber); processes (natural and metal free chemical dying, minimizing effluents, good water management systems and chrome-free tanned leathers; and products (finished fashion garments, products for the home, and eco-relevant lifestyle products).
According to C.L.A.S.S, SS16 fabrics will be characterized by two major themes: Unconventional Mellow and Emotional Resonance.
Unconventional Mellow features chromatic and multi-colored patterns, and fabrics with shiny effects, geometric prints, drawn lines, irregular jacquards and light embossing.
Meanwhile, Emotional Resonance boasts fabrics that blend comfort with intense, powdered effects. Reliefs, circular knits, striped fabrics and denim looks are also key. Best on show included Italian brand Green Fiber, for the repurposed and recycled fabrics section - offering yarns, fabrics and knitwear made from scraps up-cycled from waste left behind during the [spinning] https://www.commonshare.com/capabilities/spinning) process.
Its spring collection has been Ecolabel certified and boasts wool, cashmere, [mohair] https://www.commonshare.com/capabilities/mohair) and silk thread sourced from Biella, Italy. Re.Verso, a collection produced in the Prato region, featured re-produced wool and cashmere yarn (and full fabric cuts) made from pre-consumer waste fabric and fibers, which are collected and recycled into an entirely new material. In the same section, Bacx by Centro Seta used GOTS-certified organic silk and silk blended with New Life - a type of recycled polyester made from repurposed plastic bottles - for its jersey silk blends mixed with Greenfiber insulation for outerwear.
Representing organic and natural material makers were Lanificio Zignone and its GOTS-certified organic wool fabrics. Next to the Italians were Switzerland’s Hausammann & Moos – maker of organic cotton knits and weaves that are also certified by GOTS and the Oeko-Tex Standard; the certifications pinpointing both transparent and responsible production methods in fabric. Japan’s Shinnaigai Textile used fruits and leaves to form Tencel created from natural materials such as plants and their flowers. The Asian firm also gave back its collection of organic cotton to C.L.A.S.S. attendees.
Finallly, under the products category, E.Volution by Miroglio Textile offered responsibly-smarter certified [printing (https://www.commonshare.com/capabilities/printing) methodologies engineered specific to customer’s needs and budgets - and eco, of course.
Giusy Bettoni, chief executive officer and cofounder of C.L.A.S.S., opened her agency in 2007, feeling frustrated by the lack of sustainable fabrics being promoted on the market at the time. “Up to this point, generally speaking, the [sustainable fashion] sector was quite poor and uninspiring, with little appeal for designers. From [textile] producers and manufacturers, I was seeing cutting edge innovation, backed up with in-depth research and the most incredible and inspiring approach to sustainability. C.L.A.S.S. has all come from there really."
Aware of the issue since 1993, Bettoni now works globally to connect individuals throughout all elements of fabric production and sale, creating important links between weavers, spinners, fashion brands, retailers, and consumers."We are now working to help develop and promote the most innovative sustainable fabrics possible, and loving working with brands and designers to 'always surprise and delight', showing designers the future and what's possible with expert know-how.”