China's Polyester Makers Clean Up Their Act

Some 65 million tons of polyester is produced annually and it is the third biggest polymer fiber made in the world, behind polyethylene and polypropylene. Polyester is also the fastest growing polymer globally and as heavily used in packaging and textiles; forming the bulk of contemporary high-street fashion. It’s a booming industry that produces mass waste and absorbs large amounts of energy. Today, the polyester industry is controlled by China, whose manufacturers make up for more than half of the total polyester output. But according to an article published by Just Style, the Chinese - with the help of environmental bodies and business advocates, are cleaning up their act. More than an ethical dilemma, it pays to be more eco-friendly polyester manufacturer.The Current OpportunitiesIn order to change, China must adapt – both efficiently and effectively - from a cost-and-scale production method to a more transparent and sustainable supply chain. But it must be more than just a want – a need, so to speak. And its demographic and economic capabilities are helping. China is becoming wealthier, meaning brands must create fashion garments for consumers who are more progressive with their spending choices. Health and the environment is a major trend among wealthier spenders and recent protests in the Asian nation attest to this. China has invested heavily in new manufacturing technologies, which has seen the unit costs of producing fabrics to drop considerably. In 2013, China housed 66% of the global supply of new weaving looms, some 70% of circular knitting machines and 60% of draw texturizing machines. Energy, dyes and waste are more effectively managed as a result too. Meanwhile, China’s political system is a centralized state-economy, meaning the government can instate new eco-regulations without delay; something other countries and their government systems cannot do with such speed. The Current ObstaclesThe Just Style article posed the following question: is there a disconnect between China’s efforts to clean up its textile supply chain (and its mission to maintain industry dominance in the global apparel supply chain) and China's intentions of creating a generation of coal based polyester raw materials, as known as coal to MEG (monoethylene glycol). Bio-mechanisms and recycling in China’s textile channels are effective in reducing the sector’s carbon footprint. But the reality is that such practices are merely talked about and are not the norm. China’s existing infrastructure in petrochemical feedstocks for polyester is so deeply set that bio-feedstocks remain relatively underused. This is despite technological advancements in several bio-chemicals such as biomass-derived monoethylene glycol (MEG) and paraxylene (PX). The True Cost The PCI Consulting Group has considered the obstacles facing China. While the bio-channels and eco-alternatives do harbor immediate environmental benefits, issues such as land and water usage need to be considered in the long term. The availability of biomass and the land needed to create a bio-yield, like sugar cane, must also be looked at. If China sourced the crop as a form of bio-energy it would deplete special sugar cane needed for food, in countries like Brazil.  Therefore, the future for China is one that uses bio-chemicals and responsibly sourcing feedstocks within the supply chain. How much of each is something that PCI wants to continue to address with firms on a case-by-case assessment, developing an understanding of the environmental impacts for individual assets. According to PCI, the asset-based understanding provides the industry with answers as to which producers deliver a more sustainable product. And it provides insight into the supply chain for producers, showing their position in relation to others, highlighting the sector areas with the biggest need to improvement.