Recycling cotton byproducts into an attractive new fabric like Cupro is a great step towards eliminating textile manufacturing waste. In this article, we will answer the following questions:
What is Cupro, and how is it made? What is it used for? Is it really sustainable?
What is Cupro? How is it made? Cupro, or sometimes cupra—the short term for Cuprammonium rayon—is a regenerated cellulose fabric made from cotton waste or cotton linter. First produced in the 1890s in Japan and Italy, it’s made by combining the cellulose byproduct of cotton to a mixture of ammonium, copper, and caustic soda to result in a semi-synthetic textile substance that is now promoted as a sustainability-conscious, recycled, vegan, and machine-washable alternative to silk. In many cases, cupro is mixed with natural or synthetic fibers that give the finished garment or accessory various desired attributes. Now, it’s produced mostly in China, and the fabric is in the same family as standard rayon, viscose, Tencel, Modal, and Lyocell—all fabrics made from plant-based materials that are chemically processed to produce a smooth fabric. Despite its added chemicals and solvents, many consider cupro’s ecological footprint to be lower than its comparable large-quantity, artificial materials. It currently is a highly regarded solution to the waste problem in textile (particularly cotton) manufacturing processes. If managed properly, the production of cupro can be a closed-loop system, meaning that waste produced during creation is often recycled back into its own process. Often, the solvent used to make cupro is recycled until the new solvent is needed. What is cupro used for? Cupro is smooth and silky and drapes beautifully for dresses, blouses, tank tops, silky trousers, and pajamas. Fine and soft to the touch, breathable, and shiny, it blends well with other fabrics, can have elasticity, and can be made sheer. It’s a highly fashionable fabric that almost unfailingly makes beautiful and comfortable womenswear, for which reason it’s widely popular, used both by big brands like H&M’s COS and green-leaning brands like Amour Vert.
A great added benefit to the fabric is the fact that unlike pure silk, cupro is durable and can be washed easily in water (either machine-washed or hand-washed) without the need to dry clean. It can also be ironed on low heat. For companies looking to embrace innovation and orient their sourcing towards the goal of sustainability, CommonShare offers a variety of cupros ranging from sateens to taffeta to cotton products. Is Cupro Really Sustainable? We love to think that any waste made in the production of our cotton garments could be recycled to make a new textile, especially once we’d be inclined to buy again from our favorite brands. Cupro stands as a regenerative and profitable way to dispose of vast amounts of cotton waste—as cotton production is a hugely resource-intensive process, and unfortunately, the by-product of its industrial harvest is tiny waste fibers that, sans cupro technology, are too small to spin. Cupro also presents a fabulous alternative to the sometimes harmful and resource-demanding production of silk.
But the production of cupro is neither a simple nor wholly sustainable process. Though recycled, it could have negative impacts on the environment. As explained by the sourcing expert Sewport, cuprammonium rayon involves large quantities of copper, ammonia, and caustic soda, all three of which can be toxic when they aren’t disposed of properly. Furthermore, post-production, these chemicals are also exposed to the environment via the finished product. This means cupro isn’t exactly an “eco-friendly” fiber. After being exposed to ammonia, copper, and caustic soda, the chemical structure of the cellulose in previously pure cotton is significantly altered—nearly unrecognizable to its once natural composition. While cotton cellulose originates as a plant-based material that could be biodegradable, its new chemical makeup is not. Moreover, cuprammonium rayon garments are still sometimes referred to as “ammonia silk” on many Chinese textile websites—is ammonia healthy for our skin and body? Cupro is ultimately a derivative of rayon, arguably falsely marketed as a natural or recycled fiber. According to the CFDA Materials Index, rayons made using the cuprammonium process can be labeled cupra, cupro, cupra rayon, or the U.S. trade name Bemberg. Consequently, some sustainability-conscious consumers prefer to eschew imperfect innovation and continue avoiding artificial fibers, opting for organic silks, cotton, hemp, etc. And as more holistic fiber recycling innovations emerge, companies aiming to be more truly sustainable may be able to simply stop using synthetic fabric. Cupro, then, may not be the answer, but it will always pose as the technological step in the right direction towards more circularity in textile production. About Us At CommonShare, we understand the fashion industry inside and out—the good, the bad, and the potentially incredible. We are experienced and passionate product developers and sustainability experts who are raising the bar for a higher standard of doing business—socially, financially, and environmentally. Our mission is to enable a more efficient, less wasteful way of producing clothes and textiles. Our platform unites and aligns suppliers’ and buyers’ efforts and intentions with better network and commerce tools—providing forward-thinking buyers and brands a more optimal way to source fabrics. Our streamlined approach to sourcing, not only provides transparency, but it connects you with like-minded suppliers who are more connected to your brand and its initiatives than ever. Sign up to CommonShare today! For Brands [ Click here] For Suppliers [Click here].