Maison Margiela John Galliano’s first collection for Maison Margiela was bewitching with quasi-freakish looking coats and dresses, inspired by the theme of dressing-up. Key fabrics and prints: Wool / PVC / Satin / Suede / Crimped hair collars / Exposed seams / Pinstripe / Tartan / Deco print fur / Floral print velvet / Polka dot print velvet / Sepia print flowers / Animal print – leopard and snake Isabel Marant The collection carried an overall nautical and utility theme with accents of ethnicity with Ikat prints. But city chic trumped with feline silhouettes. Key fabrics and prints: Tweed / Wool / Denim / chiffon / Knit blends / Silk / Twill / Suede / Geometric borders / Ikat / Abstract splatter print / Sailor stripes Balmain A la discotheque was the theme to dance along the runway at Balmain. Olivier Rousteing crafted a high-voltage collection with references to Paris in the party days of the 70’s and 80’s. Key fabrics and prints: Silk / Organza / Knit Jersey / Bugle bead fringe / Satin / Velvet / Rubberized leather / Lurex / Chiffon / Lace / Color block stripes / 80’s wallpaper / Hawaiian floralsDior Raf Simons liberated women with a collection that was vamped-up, darker and slightly sexualized. Simons mixed in masculine tailoring with body suits and thigh-high boots. The fur coats were the highlight in dyed fox. Key fabrics and Prints: Tweeds / Fox fur / Mesh / Metallic collars / Wool / Silk / Lycra / Cashmere / Abstract animal / Undulating wavy stripes / Chloe Clare Waight Keller presented a feminine Seventies collection for Chloe. The mood was confident with precise tailoring, but also carefree with soft fabrics and silhouettes. The theme was “Go Your Own Way” to the tune of Fleetwood Mac. Key fabrics and prints: Brass buttons / Melton wool / Shearling / Silk georgette / Corduroy / Denim / Velvet / Micro checks / Chevron stripes / Patchwork / Snakeskin / Florals Chanel Karl Lagerfeld’s French brasserie collection was all about leisurely decadence – keeping materials super luxe for parkas and simple frocks.Key fabrics and prints: Cashmere / Mosaic / Quilting / Florals / Tweed / Embroidery / Ribbon / Chignon Sonia Rykiel Surrounded by a wall of floor-to-ceiling books among other library things, the Seventies college girl, but with a modern twist, stole the show at Sonia Rykiel. Key fabrics and prints: Velvet / Wool / Fur / Lamé / Corduroy / Suede / Tweed / Silk / Velour / Mohair / Leather / Devoré / Sequins / Stripes John Galliano Art deco met pops of saccharine color for Bill Gayten’s collection for John Galliano, as floor-length outwear made the strongest of statements over mini-dresses. Key fabrics and prints: Wool / Silk / Brocade / Lamé / Fur / Cotton / Boiled wool / Chiffon / Mohair / Crepe / Astrakhan / Jacquard / Paillettes / Sequins / Fish graphics / Dark grounded floral / Geometric Nina Ricci Guillaume Henry’s first collection for the Parisian label looked less feminine. Silhouettes were slightly, with minimal design details set against hints of military accents. Key fabrics and patterns: Silk / Lace / Tweed / Fur / Knit blends / Wool / Felt / Crepe / Sequins / Fringe / Houndstooth / Dove motif / Kenzo Design duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim offered a deconstructed drapy and wrappy collection, rich in the concept of a forest nomad. Key fabrics and prints: Georgette / Fil coupe / Chiffon silk / Melton Wools / Boucle / Shearling / Fur / Knit / Embroidery / Feathered edges / Floral jacquard / Stripes / Variegated stripes / Graphic dissected rays and labyrinths / Distorted camouflage Celine Artisanal glamor was the feel Celine with tattered-look frocks and animal appliques for a playful, maximal and beautifully tattered collection from Phoebe Philo. Key fabrics and materials: Silk satin / Leather / Ribbed wool knit / Silk charmeuse / Abstract zebra / Hand rendered creatures – Fox, Deer, Mink, Rabbit. Paul & Joe Paul & Joe looked to preppy femininity with a Parisian-inspired grunge vibe. Key fabrics and prints: Wool / Chiffon / Poplin / Silk / Flannel / Velvet / Sheepskin / Mohair / Organza / Denim / Brocade / Sequins / Velvet bows / Tartan / Wallpaper floral / Paisley