Not shy of luxury, the Middle East is fast becoming a mecca of big spenders and nice things. In 2014, research firm CBRE ranked Dubai as the second-most important destination for international retailers, after London. More than half of all major international retailers have outlets in Dubai, and a third of all luxury spending in the Middle East (some $7.6bn in 2012) happens here, according to consulting firm Bain and Company. Despite the region’s attraction to opulence, its local designer-to-shopper ratio hasn’t quite matched up - yet. Now in its fifth edition, Dubai’s Fashion Forward – the city’s answer to fashion week – indicates that times are slowly changing for local fashion crafters. The annual Fashion Forward (FFWD) event, “aims to be the definitive fashion platform for the Middle East – a fashion movement that highlights strengths, inspires and nurtures industry growth and its wealth of talent, with the ultimate goal of driving forward the entire fashion industry in the region,” according to its website. Created by Bong Guerrero two years ago, FFWD continues to garner attention, increasing in size and attendance each season. In Season 5, which ran from April 10-13, around 75 local buyers showed-face, witnessing 23 runway shows and presentations, and a slew of panel discussions and showrooms. Representing traditional Arabic style, newcomer designer Faiza Bouguessa offered a collection of black cloaks or abayas; those garments typically worn by women in the Middle East. Her one-year-old label Bouguessa, however, modernized drapery - mixing in sophisticated tailoring with long jackets. Colors were neutral – black, white, cream and gray – with saccharine referencing in pops of color, metal hardware that was subtle and graphic prints. And atypical zips lined the sleeves. For fabric, materials were kept light using cashmere for breathability and viscose for its drape-like form “I’m exploring the abstract concept of the line between modesty and individuality and between comfort and elegance,” Bouguessa, told WWD. “I took basic patterns from ladies’ wardrobes like a T-shirt dress, a trench coat, safari jacket and cardigan and adapted for the needs of women in this region.” The muted colors continued at Emirati Madiyah Al Sharqi, who created a light pastel collection. The line, made up silk crepes, lace and leather, was inspired by “spending a lot of time in Los Angeles,” the designer told WWD. A more aesthetically adventurous debut to Fashion Forward came from Lebanese designer Hussein Bazaza. His Fall collection went to town on color-blocking and geometric – reminiscent on Scandinavian designers and their attention to fabric detail, as opposed to pattern. Embossed leather added weighty texture, next to plush velvet and a woody forest print. Keeping his floral tradition alive, red roses were the final layer to a richly romantic collection. Rounding out the four-day event was Furne One - designer to the Gulf Royals. With his brand Amato, heavy embellishment – think pins and crystals - ransacked denim with safety pins and Swarovski crystals. The concept? Tying modernity to old-glamor Arab opulence, he told WWD. Dubai: A Design Hub? With the construction of the Dubai Design District (D3) well under way, the city becoming a hub for emerging fashion talent in the Gulf is very likely. The Dubai Design and Fashion Council plans to set up a design school with students from around the world attending. One of the school's specialties will be Islamic design, and will open with the scheduled completion of D3 later in the year. The council, formed only in 2014, intends to act as an incubator for new design businesses, providing technical support and advice. Making up the 2m sqm. creative district will be galleries, studios, workshops, boutique stores and museums, plus office and residential space.The first phase, to open this year, will cost 4 billion dirhams ($1.09bn) with 220 companies already agreeing to invest or take part. Eventually, Dubai state funds could be invested in some of the businesses, along with private sector money.