Fast Fashion and its Toxic Relationship with Fossil Fuels

The fast fashion industry is synonymous with soaring levels of fossil fuel consumption and exploitation of workers in global supply chains. In addition, reports are pointing to the increase in the use of cheap, synthetic fibers, especially polyester, to meet the consumer demands of fast fashion. The current production model in use is standing in the way of ever transitioning to any kind of circular economy. Without a radical change in legislation and a considerable halt in production, the fashion industry will produce unsound volumes of waste and toxic microfibres, emitting more carbon emissions than the planet can handle. Fast Fashion is Fueled by Synthetic Fibers According to a report conducted by the Changing Markets Foundation, fast fashion has doubled since the early 2000s and is expected to grow from 62 million tonnes in 2015 to 102 million tonnes by 2030. As consumers are buying more clothes than ever before, and so much of this growth is rooted in runaway consumption. The reality is that few consumers know that this rise in the production of clothes is actually enabled by cheap synthetic fibers, which is found in almost half of all textiles that are produced. Interestingly, there’s a direct correlation between the growth of polyester and the surge of the fast-fashion industry, so it’s clear that they are both dependent on each other. Polyester production has increased ninefold over the last 50 years, with the fiber becoming widely adopted as the low-cost material of choice. Polyester costs half as much as cotton, and therefore as firmly positioned itself as the backbone of the highly favored throwaway model for fast fashion. Dependence on fossil fuels In addition, the production of synthetic fibers causes the fashion industry to stay highly dependent on the use of fossil fuel extraction. Currently, synthetic fibers used for the textile industry accounts for 1.35% of global oil consumption, exceeding the annual oil consumption of the country of Spain. Studies have shown that the oil and gas industries rely on the persistent production of plastic as a key revenue stream, while the demand for oil declines. According to the Internationa Energy Agency, petrochemicals will show a 50% growth in oil demand by 2050, while BP Energy predicts that plastic production will make up for 95% of future growth demand for oil. By observing these numbers, it’s estimated that synthetic fibers will rise from 69% to 73% of total fiber production globally by 2030, with polyester accounting for 85% of this. Hence, if fast fashion continues to function as it does so now, almost three-quarters of our textiles will be produced from fossil fuels in ten years. In addition, fossil fuels are getting more polluted, coming from fracked gas and even with projects in the pipeline to produce polyester from coal. Carbon dioxide emissions caused by polyester production amounted to a staggering 700 million tonnes. This figure is estimated to nearly double by 2030, which would hit twice the greenhouse gas emissions of Australia. How the Industry Can Clean Up Its Act Despite all this, many companies still haven’t done their part in setting goals and commitments to contribute to tackling the climate crisis. Here are ways that brands that put sustainability as a priority: Scientists warn that we must collectively cut global emissions in half by the end of the decade. Brands need to set big and bold commitments that reflect their transparency, this means showing their emissions so that consumers can hold them to their goals. Renewable energy needs to take center stage. Brands must cease the use of highly polluting substances like coal entirely, yet big names like PVH Corp and VF Corp rely on it to power their operations. The garment industry is a vital part of the economy in countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam, so brands need to make it clear that they won’t fuel their factories with dirty fossil fuels. Let’s not forget that burning fossil fuels isn’t the only culprit. Brands need to completely eliminate fabrics like polyester that are entirely made from fossil fuels, and design for durability by switching to a circular model.