Fashion trends are not just mere aesthetics, but also give a clear reflection of society and the development the industry. If see-now buy-now was a reflection of current millennial consumer needs, the recent trend that it is defining the industry is the coed runway show.
The idea of genderless fashion is not exactly new. Back in the 60s, Yves Saint Laurent designed women’s tuxedo jacket that became the centerpiece of contemporary fashion. A decade later, genderless fashion got one step further with flares, heels and bright colors that became the idea of a new masculinity. Thereby getting rid of any cultural stereotypes related to gender, and focusing on authenticity and individuality instead.
It was Gucci’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele though that started hosting coed shows, by stating that mixed shows better serve his creative vision. He thereby began to present Gucci’s womenswear and menswear collections as one, unified show, as opposed to hosting two separate shows. Marco Bizzarri, CEO of Gucci, further explained the decision at the New York Times 2017 International Luxury Conference by saying that it will "significantly help to simplify many aspects of our business" and added that "maintaining two separate, disconnected calendars has been a result of tradition rather than practicality." Following in Gucci’s footsteps, other brands such as Tom Ford, Balmain and Balenciaga also hosted coed fashion shows and plan to continue doing so.
Apart from being just a trend, coed runway shows also have a deep socio-political significance by giving a statement of gender-neutrality. It showcases people’s desire to redefine their sexuality and gender roles, to invent new roles and identities and play the seduction game with different terms. Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, described coed as the trend that confirms "fashion’s ability to catch, codify and [reflect] the most radical social and cultural changes." In that same WWD interview he went further by defining coed as follows: "Setting aside gender stereotypes and breaking boundaries between the masculine and feminine, so that it becomes fluid."
Next to the fact that hosting coed fashion shows reinforce the unifying identity of a brand, it is also an efficient way to cut costs. Streetwear fashion, for example, dominates the current fashion scene, and genderfluid items become the norm in most streetwear clothing collections. The mathematics behind this idea is simple, paying for one show is always better than staging two different ones in a such short time.