The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the leading standard in ecology and social responsibility for processing organic fibers. The first ever GOTS conference was held in Mumbai last month, with India as the world leader in both organic cotton production and processing. The nation holds the largest number of GOTS certified facilities in the world and neighbors Bangladesh and Pakistan, the biggest global manufacturers of finished garments. The May 22 event welcomed 250 delegates from 12 countries through its doors including representatives from brands, retailers, buyers, manufacturers of textiles, certification bodies, testing laboratories, trade associations, NGOs, academics and media. Herbert Ladwig, the managing director for GOTS in Germany, kicked things off at the one-day conference, elaborating on India's roles as a pioneer for taking GOTS global. “Today, out of the more than 3600 facilities GOTS certified worldwide, more than 1300 are in this country,” Ladwig remarked, before sharing his vision for a changed perception of quality. “If ecological civilization and thus sustainable production has to become mainstream, a fundamental change of the concept of good product quality is necessary,” said Ladwig. “The perception of good quality must be transformed into a holistic one, where a product not produced in a sustainable way, is considered bad quality even if it is fashionable, fitting, and colourful. Its sustainable production must become part of the product identity.” Sumit Gupta, conference coordinator and GOTS' representative in India & Bangladesh, emphasized the correct use of labeling and making the right claims about organic textiles. Speaking on the theme of the conference - ‘Strong Partnerships for Success’ – Gupta said sustainability is a complex concept and therefore, the whole supply chain has to work in a strong partnership to achieve this goal. “Trust and long term commitment is required form both buyers and suppliers,” said Gupta. One major issue discussed was the notion of change agents: did the onus fall on brands and textile makers to educate consumers on organics or should consumers be the ones demanding garments be GOTS-certified? Claudia Kersten, GOTS' marketing director, lead a panel session called the ‘Business Case for Sustainability’, arguing brands need to see the link between sustainability-based textile standards and their own competitive strategy. Kersten spoke of the added value a business gains from being GOTS-certified - aligning environmental and social management with the economic success of the company. She explained that brands should label GOTS on their products instead of using self-claims, which can influence shoppers and indirectly pressure manufacturers to provide GOTS-fabrics. “[Brands] can influence the consumer, as well as the producer of the textiles,” Kersten told WWD. As well as the GOTS executives, brands representatives from across the world were given the microphone. Dr. Ulrich Hofmann from Germany’s Brands Fashion spoke of the expectations of being GOTS-certified. Hofmann said that there should be improved traceability of the supply chain starting with organic cotton farming and the need to increase organic cotton supply. Shishir Goenka, from India’s Fusion Clothing Co., spoke of the firm's GOTS benefits. The executive listed-off an increase in work environment safety, increased worker morale and improvements in his company’s image, which has lead to an increase in sales opportunities over uncertified companies. While most agreed on the economic benefits of GOTS-certification and the mutual role of both the consumer and brand in increasing organic awareness, one session touched on the different aspects of standard setting, implementation and the practicality of voluntary versus statutory standards. Mathieu Lamolle, from the International Trade Centre raised concerns about domestic standards conflicting with globally set ones, which would affect international trade. “Development of national statutory standards in addition to the existing international sustainability standards could easily create obstacles to trade,” said Lamolle, via videolink from Switzerland. “International standards do encompass a global perspective and are developed in the view of making international supply chains more efficient – which is obviously particularly important in cases where supply chains are organized globally, as in the case of the textile and apparel industry.” Ladwig suggested that the standards should be voluntary. However, governments should be able to adopt and enforce private standards. “The USDA has set an example by formally accepting GOTS for sale of textiles labelled as organic via its policy memorandum dated May 2011,” referenced Ladwig. Arvind Sinha, from India’s Business Advisors Group concluded the debate saying that there needs to be cooperation between different stakeholders for the benefit of the industry. Be it, government, trade associations, farmers and textile manufacturers and distributors. The government’s sovereign duty to impose legislation of textile makers to produce GOTS-friendly fabrics was reiterated by Siddhartha Rajagopal, executive director of The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council of India. “At what stage does the state take responsibility for private business?” he asked.