H&M Group’s Road to Recovery

H&M Group has, in recent years, stood out as one of the leading industries pushing for change within the textile industry. Once known for fast fashion, the group has since drastically changed its prerogative and instead now focuses on innovation and goals geared towards sustainable measures. In its latest efforts, H&M has introduced Innovation Stories — collections with unique sustainable techniques and fabrics at their core.  The Transformation of the H&M Group Once the face of fast fashion, pushing forth trends and inexpensive textiles, the Swedish-based H&M group has since pivoted. The Group, which comprises nine brands under its umbrella — including H&M, COS, Weekday, Monki, H&M Home, & Other Stories, ARKET and Afound, as well as the most recently acquired Sellpy — now promotes and focuses on the opposing end of the spectrum.  Sustainability Awards Since redirecting its mission, the Group has accrued a number of prestigious awards which highlight their achievements towards conceiving a more sustainable and regenerative textile industry. In 2019 alone, the Group won the Dow Jones Sustainability Index (for the seventh year in a row), which qualified it as one of the top 10 percent of the world's most sustainable companies; and made it onto the Carbon Disclosure Project’s (CDP) annual A-List report, which recognizes the world's most innovative companies when it comes to environmental transparency and performance. The Group was specifically recognized for its work in cutting emissions, diminishing climate risks, and building a zero-carbon future. Sustainability Performance Report In their recently published 2020 Sustainability Performance Report, the Group was able to boast of numerous notable achievements which deserve recognition. To name a few, 64.5% of the materials used by H&M Group brands are now from recycled or sustainable sources; they reached their goal of making 100% of their cotton organic, recycled, or sourced through sustainable ways; they set a new goal which aims to use 30% of recycled materials by 2025; in efforts to become even more transparent, H&M brand trialed an on-product-transparency pilot with the Higg Index, a tool to create comparability of sustainability performance across the fashion industry; and they even launched business models such as COS Resell and Arket Rental in order to help its customers enjoy sustainability in an alternative way. H&M's Journey Towards Sustainable and Circular Fashion Such dedications have continued well into 2021. In February, H&M announced the introduction of a new concept known as the Innovation Series. The idea, through its blend of technology, sustainable fabrications, and design, proves that change does not have to come at the cost of style. The collective, which will launch throughout the year, will feature wide-ranging collections, each with a unique theme. “Our new concept continues H&M’s journey towards a sustainable and circular fashion system”, said Ann-Sofie Johansson, Creative Advisor at H&M. “Innovation Stories allows us to develop and grow, all while creating desirable and long-lasting pieces that we hope our customers will love and be proud of.” The "Science Story" Collection The first drop of the series came in March and was specified as the “Science Story”, which paid tribute to fabrics of the future. Through the collection, H&M initiated the use of new materials such as EVO by Fulgar®, a bio-based yarn derived from castor oil, and Desserto, which is a plant-based alternative to leather, produced from cactus plants. “Innovation Stories is a platform that pushes our experimentation to the next level”, said Ella Soccorsi, Concept Designer at H&M. “The initiative encourages our work with scientists and developers and puts a spotlight on our progressive ideas. Science Story is a homage to the years of research and experiments behind these incredible materials.” The "Color Story" Collection This month's drop, which launched on April 15th, centers around the theme of color and changes the focus over to sustainable dyes. The aptly named “Color Story” presented women’s separates, each dyed using original techniques including biotechnology, plant-based pigments, and digital textile printing. The collection includes a range of pieces including skirts, t-shirts, jeans, ponchos, trousers, and more.  The result was something unusual, yet classic and recognizable as can be seen through hues such as yellow and orange, indigo, and blushing pinks similar to the tone which can be extracted from an avocado pit. The collection also managed to stay on trend by offering colorful tie-dye pieces, which served in pulling the entire spectrum of palettes together.  “We’re continually aiming to create elevated pieces with more sustainable materials and processes,” Johansson notes. “With this collection, our forward-thinking designs work together with revolutionary dye processes to make a positive change—be that lower water consumption or reformed manufacturing. This collection has a charming free spirit; our customers will no doubt love these contemporary pieces, but we hope they’re inspired by the empowering sustainable narrative, too.” One such modern technique was made possible via Colorfix, a U.K. biotech company that uses natural, biological processes to produce and fix pigments onto textiles. Their solutions eliminate some of the greatest challenges that dyeing has contributed to the textile industry, including the use of harsh chemicals and high levels of water consumption. Another process was introduced through We aRe SpinDye, a recycled polyester that is pigmented before being extracted into yarn. Their alternative method uses 75 percent less water during the entire coloring process and requires 90 percent less chemical consumption. The collection even extends into accessories, including jewelry made using recycled glass and sandals made with Bloom, a flexible foam whose ingredients include algae biomass. The Innovation Stories Collection As we transition into May, H&M looks to announce its latest collection of Innovation Stories. The series allows the brand to continue its journey proudly and creatively towards restabilizing the planet. Change is inevitable. The hope is that other designers and brands will take note of this and themselves begin the road to recovery.