How Demand-Driven Fashion Could Help to Clean up the Industry

Editorial TeamEditorial Team
|
December 20th, 2021
|
11:24 AM

Clothes design based on the “made-to-order” model could be the answer to the industry’s pollution issues.

Fashion companies face the constant challenge of having to guess which and how many garments will sell, months before they are available for consumers to buy. The speculative nature of the production chain has led to rampant overproduction and waste, exacerbated in recent years by the explosive growth of fast fashion. But what is the alternative? One solution is to take the guesswork out of fashion by producing only the clothes that customers have already chosen. From designing and creating garments based on search algorithms to producing limited units based on orders, made-to-order fashion is becoming an emerging format, positioning itself as a winning equation for companies and consumers. Problems such as the generation of large surpluses, overproduction due to the "fast fashion" model in which fashion is produced almost constantly, and the environmental impact derived from producing large quantities are some of the problems that escape the on-demand production model which, with the help of technology and social networks, is already being practiced by some brands. Knowing what clothes will be worn each season is a challenge for brands, which months in advance begin a chain of design and production of the clothes that will be seen in the shops and on the streets. Not all trends permeate the social fabric, and on the contrary, there are some "hits" that are renewed season after season, exhausting stocks. Garments such as skinny trousers have been in shops and on the streets for several seasons, defying the experts' prediction that they will die out in favor of other types of silhouettes, making it clear that the weight of demand is stronger than that of supply, even when it comes in the form of large advertising investments, as opposed to new models that are incorporated each season and end up becoming overstocked. What is the “Made-to-Order” System? The "made-to-order" model is a production system in which only what has been ordered in advance is produced, based on a small number of orders, eliminating the production of excess stock, and which has been in operation for some time now, from small firms such as Maison Cléo to giants such as Nike, on its "Nike by You" platform. Through the creation of realistic and “customizable” designs, customers can configure what their ideal trainers would look like, choosing each small detail a la carte before ordering them. Also based on new technologies is the "PlatformE" software, with which firms such as Dior or the luxury giant Farfetch work, managing the relationship between the firm and the customer. Another software that supports this model is "Unmade", with which the footwear firm "New Balance" works and which offers infinite possibilities of personalization of its garments, which customers can see and try on through augmented reality graphics. With the use of technology as their main ally, more and more firms are opting for this business model, as is the case of Paynter, which produces only three jacket models a year, with production only taking place when a minimum number of orders is reached. Brands that Are Utilizing this Software Olivia Rose The Label only accepts orders in its shop twice a month and manages all production processes from its workshop in Edinburgh. In Spain, one of the ambassadors of this model is the firm Andión, whose workshop is located in a village near Santiago de Compostela, from where they produce blouses in which the customer chooses the fabric. Through the creation of realistic and customizable designs, customers can configure what their ideal trainers would look like, choosing each small detail a la carte before ordering them. Also based on new technologies is the "PlatformE" software, with which firms such as Dior or the luxury giant Farfetch work, managing the relationship between the firm and the customer. Paynter's made-to-order model is one example of the many new and exciting solutions that the fashion industry has been inundated within recent years to address its huge and growing environmental footprint. One essential aspect that sets Paynter apart from the others is that the made-to-order model, an old way of producing garments revitalized in recent years with the advent of new technologies and growing concern for sustainability, directly addresses the problem of overproduction in fashion. Loewe also joins this trend, in a section that offers the option of personalizing some of the bags on its website, through the choice of leathers and also the type of handles or metallic elements, as well as choosing from a palette of seventeen colors. This form of production, which is actually ancient and reminiscent of the origins of Haute Couture, made to measure and under exclusive customer orders, finds in new technologies the perfect partner for much more efficient and sustainable production, avoiding overproduction.