A Brief History of the ‘Shirt” In the 19th century, a shirt was bought from a tailor, a practice that hasn’t waned in the modern-day. The white shirt was (and in some ways still is) considered to be an important attribute of prosperity. The 20th century brought many changes to shirt design and manufacturing. Factory-made shirts rose in popularity with the introduction of sewing machines, innovative manufacturing techniques and skilled seamstresses and seamsters. The styling and design variations of modern shirts have become endless. Shirt collars now come in many different cuts and widths and are sensitive to fashion trends.
Choosing Your Fabric Fabric choice ultimately affects brand perception, no matter how well a garment has been constructed. This is especially true for luxury labels, which are synonymous with quality fabrics and top-quality construction. As far as shirt manufacturing goes, natural fibres are the best option. Cotton is most commonly used in shirt manufacture, with linen, wool and Tencel to a lesser degree. Benefits to Natural Fibres
Lightweight
Good for people with sensitivity to certain chemicals
Create the best yarns for shirt making
Soft against skin
Can be dyed any colour
Some can be grown organically
Recyclable
Some can withstand high temperatures
Breathability
Sweat-resistant
Comfortable for all-day wear
Fabrics Overview Thread Count A higher thread count means a smoother, silkier, more expensive fabric. Thread count refers to the yarn size, with a number like 50s, 80s, 100s, 120s, 140s, 170s, etc up to 330s. Single-ply Vs 2-ply Spinning raw fibres into a yarn creates a single-ply fabric. This can be used for more casual shirts, however, for more professional and formal shirts, 2-ply fabrics are frequently used. As the name suggests, 2-ply material is created by spinning two yarns into a single yarn, resulting in a tighter more stretchy weave. They are generally more superior, feel smoother, with that ‘crisp’ feel associated with quality. Compact Vs Normal Yarns A compact yarn is a higher quality yarn that is smooth and fine. Fabrics woven from these yarns often feel finer and smoother than you would expect based on their thread count alone. Compact yarns have almost become the standard for superior Italian fabrics now and are less common in Chinese or Indian sourced fabrics. Shirt Construction Various factors go into making the perfect shirt. Your Tech Pack will share your specifications with the factory, identifying the following aspects of the construction of the shirt. Stitching Quality stitching is vital to a professional finish. Most classic shirts use standard 8mm stitches. However, they can go to as short as 1-2mm for more formal shirts, giving a more superior appearance. A high density of stitching is also fundamental to the durability of the garment, and to create a smooth and sleek effect. Collar An aesthetically pleasing collar stems from proper construction, as well as accurate sizing specification and shaping. Collars are made with two layers of joined fabric with an interlining layer sandwiched in the middle. These layers are then joined together by the fusing method (essentially involving glueing the layers together), or the non-fusing method (stitching the layers together). Yoke The yoke of a shirt is the area under the collar, that drapes over the shoulder and holds the shirt’s backing over the body. It is basically the piece of the shirt acting as a hanger, and creates the crisp lines of the shirt’s backside. If a yoke is not well-made, it can cause a gathering in the center of the back, which makes the back look pinched, and often cheapens the whole look of the shirt. They are generally sewn with a double layer, so the shape has correct fabric weight to drape over the body, and does not allow much wrinkling. A single yolk (more casual) is usually sewn from the same solid colour fabric as the rest of the shirt, whereas a split yoke (more formal) is made of four different cuts of fabric, with a seam down the middle. Patterns or stripes need to be carefully tailored here so that the shirts finish will be perfect. Sleeves Sleeves are an important fixture of shirt design that have both aesthetic and practical functions. There are sixteen main types of sleeves depending on your needs, and two ways to attach the sleeves depending on your budget. The sewn-on during construction method (more affordable) requires that the sleeves are sewn on while the whole shirt is being constructed. The sewn-on after construction method (more expensive) requires that the sleeves are sewn onto the garment after the rest has been constructed. A specialized manufacturer may be needed to provide this type of construction. Matching Patterns Matching patterns on seams is crucial to highlight the quality and professional craftsmanship of your brand. Buttonholes There is nothing worse than loose buttonhole threads or different sized holes on your shirt, so attention needs to be given here also. What comes next? After you’ve examined these aspects of construction and created a tech pack for your designs, it is time to find a pattern maker and clothing manufacturing factory or tailor to create your shirt! About Us At CommonShare, we understand the fashion industry inside and out—the good, the bad, and the potentially incredible. We are experienced and passionate product developers and sustainability experts who are raising the bar for a higher standard of doing business—socially, financially, and environmentally. Our mission is to enable a more efficient, less wasteful way of producing clothes and textiles. Our platform unites and aligns suppliers’ and buyers’ efforts and intentions with better network and commerce tools—providing forward-thinking buyers and brands a more optimal way to source fabrics. Our streamlined approach to sourcing, not only provides transparency, but it connects you with like-minded suppliers who are more connected to your brand and its initiatives than ever. Sign up to CommonShare today! For Brands [ Click here] For Suppliers [Click here].