Huddersfield Cloth: Heritage Spinning In A Digital Age

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May 11th, 2015
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9:00 AM

Traditional in form and weave, Huddersfield wool remains close to its English heritage - formed hundreds of years ago. The difference between then and now, however, is the region's acceptance of new technologies, coerced by a pioneering digital age.

Found in the wintry blow of England's mid-north, Huddersfield is situated at the convergence of the rivers Colne and Holme. The town could be easily mistaken for the setting of 'Downton Abbey'. And while it's not Huddersfield's architecture or even its luscious pastures and meadows to feature on the hit period drama, wool fabrics produced by local mills in the region have in fact, hit the big screen.Hundreds of years ago, inhabitants of Huddersfield's river valleys discovered that the water – which flows from the Millstone Grit Pennine hills – served as a useful source for the washing of raw wool. Since then, Huddersfield and its staple of mills has produced some of the finest wool in the world - globally recognized for its quality and excellent production.Proud of its heritage, the worsted wool - a weave special to Huddersfield - remains produced in much the same way. The wool textile industry was traditionally operated from smallholdings. The cloth was made, finished and then sold through merchants who regularly attended the town’s Cloth Hall. But then came the industrial revolution in the 19th century, bringing with it great change and unrest to these parts of England. The wool and textile industries were heading toward more mechanical efficiencies, which meant big mills needed to be built.The vertically-integrated factories eventually took over the all the processes and finishing from the artisans. But the mills ensured one thing; the manufacturing of fine woolen fabrics, which demanded a high level of expertise, needed to continue. Huddersfield's new mills rose to the occasion, consolidating a reputation with London's Savile Row and British royals for their luxury worsted wool.Traditionally, wool comes in a variety of shapes and styles, but it is Huddersfield worsted wool, that is rather special. The combing process produces a straighter, stronger fiber and enables garments to be pushed and pulled into shape, explains Rian Taylor, chief executive at Huddersfield Cloth. So, it is worsted that is the cloth of choice for suiting. As Huddersfield Cloth expands into the global market, the mill has had to refine cloth styles and finishes to meet the needs of individual regions. "As a company, we are customer-led," says Taylor. "And in the last five years we have introduced more variety to our textiles range than we have in the last fifty years."Huddersfield Cloth is one of only a small group of textile firms worldwide to offer low minimum orders for wool suiting. Offering one-yard minimums, their focus on the individual makes it a tailored service for clients, despite their big operations.On site, computerized IT solutions process thousands of orders a day. The firm ships same day too, arriving to Australia, Asia and the Americas - in mere days. As Taylor points out, the output has changed drastically at Huddersfield but sourcing and manufacturing processes remain unchanged.Drawing from some of the finest suppliers and wool farmers in world, Huddersfield Cloth taps most of its yarn from Australia and New Zealand. "The wool is sheared, graded and scoured (cleaned) before being sent to carding," explains Taylor. "This is the process whereby the wool is spun into yarn. Shorter fibers are combed and, thus spinning begins." Once finished it is shipped to the mill, and then woven into fabric."The cloth is stretched, cleaned again and then finished," continues Taylor. "The finishing process can be undertaken multiple times depending on the final sheen required in the cloth."Some 4,000 businesses - ranging from traditional tailors to movie studios - order from Huddersfield Cloth online. 'Downtown Abbey' recently sourced worsted wool from the merchant for a second time, with Huddersfield Cloth supplying fabrics for suits used on set. Meanwhile, over in Texas, the Dallas Opera company this season ordered cloth for costumes in its production of 'Iolanta'.Huddersfield also maintains a close relationship with educators and trainers in Britain. These professionals are set on training the next generation of tailors in England, something that is close to the heritage values of Huddersfield Cloth.Traditions are important to the mill, but it remains focused on bringing worsted wool forward to a wider market. "This includes developing ways to preview the cloth online as a 3D model for suiting and making the most of mobile technology," explains Taylor. "Essentially, we want to keep leading the way in the region, creating more jobs and attracting more business to the valley."Huddersfield Cloth will be exhibiting for the first time at the Custom Tailors and Designers Association show in New York, this July. As part of Designer Forum New York, the trade show caters to luxury menswear buyers, and custom clothiers and tailors. The move consolidates the mill's further expansion into the U.S., as it looks for American tailors and shops to start stocking more Huddersfield Cloth.With plans for growth, Huddersfield Cloth remains firmly rooted its Huddersfield community - not forgetting the local people who walk past their factory gates each day."We sponsor the local five-a-side football team and have provided them with team shirts," says Taylor. "One of our staff members even plays for the team." "We also sponsored the local kindergartens 'under five’s' football team," continues Taylor, before chucking in a timely joke.