Ikat fabrics are some of the oldest known patterned textiles in the world, and arguably the most perennially vibrant. One of the great supporters of this historic practice was the late designer Oscar de la Renta who rose to fame in the 1960s as he dressed film stars to first ladies to royalty. Since 2005, Oscar de la Renta has worked closely with ikat artisans, including their singular creations in his collections. “Ikat is so unbelievably rich in color,” de la Renta has said. “It is a very traditional fabric that works well for all seasons”. Collaborating with Rasuljon Mirzaakhmedov, a master craftsman from Margilan in the Ferghana Valley, Oscar de la Renta’s collection includes adras (cotton and silk ikat), baghmal (silk velvet ikat) and atlas (satin ikat) in bold graphic patterns. The creation of ikat involves a weaving technique in which thousands of individual threads (warp, weft or both) are tie-dyed in intricate patterns, then untied and woven into fabric. The use of clay or wax-resist is often used to stamp onto the yarn and then it is immersed and re-immersed in dye. This technique requires someone of great skill, as all threads must remain in the correct order and be lined up exactly to create the imaginative designs. The natural movement in ikat gives the process a watery, feathered edge.The term 'ikat' itself comes from the Malay word 'mengikat', meaning to tie or to bind. This refers to the tie-dyeing method used to give these textiles their unique vibrancy of colour and design. Because textiles rarely survive more than a few thousand years, it is unknown how far back ikat patterns date. The earliest existing examples are fragments found in the Middle East that date from the 10th century. However, ikat-like textiles appear in 7th-century Indian cave paintings and the technique has roots throughout Asia and Africa as it was exported to the rest of the world along the Silk Road. Within the cultures that originally produced them, ikats were typically status symbols because of the skill and time that their production required, naturally making them more expensive and luxurious.From the Proenza Schouler runway to the shelves of Aldo with its Julian Louie collection, ikat prints seem to have been everywhere lately. This playful fashion trend works best when paired with monochromatic and neutral hues, and when accessories skew towards ladylike (classic pumps, gray pearls, etc.) An ikat mini dress worn with a black blazer, an ikat top worn with fitted white trousers, or a loose-fitting neutral tank tucked into an ikat skirt are perfect examples of how to wear this bold print. Ikat print scarves, jewelry, shoes, and handbags are also wonderful ways to add an exotic touch to an everyday work outfit without going too bohemian. There are several designers who work exclusively with authentic hand woven ikat and translate their works with local artisans in India to create unique designs for men and women. Oscar de la Renta was also adamant about creating his designs purely from hand woven ikat. Textile suppliers such as Sawang Boran, La Casa and Deeba Crafts also sustain the age-old traditional methods of creating hand woven ikat, preserving this unique and highly skilled craft for generations to come. Suppliers in this article
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