Modern luxury played games with traditionalism at the very first Amazon India fashion week this month. With Amazon as the new event sponsor by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) in Delhi, the Fall/Winter 2015 edition marked 25 years since India entered the official fashion arena in the 1990. Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna’s collection 'An Early Frost' set the modernity pace early on - day two of fashion week. Depicting an arctic sphere, the pair offered a metallic and monochromatic collection, dominated by layering and exaggerated sleeve-lines. Capes and high-waisted skirts mocked each other in silhouette, while embossed neoprene dresses and lazer-cut jackets displayed a tech-savvy approach to fabric. There was a bestial undertow too - experimenting with prints and textures inspired from fur, and handcrafted appliqué came inspired by the skins of animals. Black and gray were key hues, in line with the trends seen in Paris and New York, just weeks before. Gandhi and Khanna then returned for the fashion week grand finale at the Pragati Maidan on Sunday, which saw 25 Indian designers congregate to celebrate the nation’s silver jubilee in fashion. This time, the duo presented more color - red, orange and pink - staying in line with the show’s overall theme - 'Crafts of India'. “Indian craft finds its unique expression in almost every Indian home and runs like an admired and cherished thread through our sensibilities,” said Vikas Purohit, Head Fashion, Amazon India, ahead of the show. “[The finale] is a true homage to Indian craftsmanship and a befitting culmination to the Amazon India Fashion Week.” Indian designer Manish Arora, who also shows his ready-to-wear collections Paris, featured along side fellow big names Wendell Roddick, Rohit Bal and Sabyasachi. Ashima Leena mixed together different fabrics and prints, working in tribal jewelry, fringes and tassels into the collection. Embellishments were used sparingly and printed pleats were a highlight. Meanwhile, beads and jewls were stitched over bandanas, completing the boho-chic look. The 25-strong group consisted of emerging designers too - all uniting to celebrate the richness and heritage of Indian craft. Each created in secret two looks - in red, orange and pink only – before coming together at the finale for a mass group show. FDCI president, Sunil Sethi lauded the magnitude of the finale, saying: “I salute them. There was no better way for the finale. Even though it was celebration of 25th edition, let’s say it was the first edition and look how we celebrated.” Indeed, the finale paid homage to India’s textile past, but with Amazon now on board, the future of Indian design, and promoting emerging designers globally, is a major a priority for the textile nation. So too is connecting ready-to-wear garments to international retail buyers and online consumers. Purohit said that Amazon plans to bridge this gap and minimize the lag between buyers, sellers and designers. “New talent is provided through fashion week. But then they need a platform to sell and also need data about what is in demand,” said Purohit. “We aim to bring all those things to the table.”
India's Traditional Textiles Befriend Western Commercialism
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March 31st, 2015
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