Kimono: A Modern History at The Metropolitan Museum of Art

50 kimonos and related objects spanning different eras are part of the exhibit, Kimono: A Modern History, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Japanese kimono is infused with culture and history. The evolution of its construction, fabric choices, and stylistic changes all tell the story of Japan’s trajectory in defining itself as a nation and its place within the global stage. Moreover, its transformation from a traditional form of dress in Japan to fashion inspiration for Western designers and a global audience also points to the enduring magnetism of the kimono. The garments are displayed chronologically and accompanied by various objects and paintings that show how the decorative patterns of the kimono were mirrored in other art forms. Indeed, the viewer will be able to appreciate the range and evolution of elaborate designs, colorful motifs and the use of exquisite embroideries.  The earliest iterations of the Japanese kimono can be traced back to 5th century AD.  Literally meaning “thing to wear”, the kimono is a T-shaped, straight-lined robe made out of rectangular panels. Part of the allure behind the garment is the ritual behind draping the kimono over the body, made all the more sumptuous because of the smooth silks and other fine fabrics they are made out of. The exhibit begins with the Edo period (1615-1868) in Japan, which is marked by a relative isolation from the world, which is reflected in the very native-inspired designs and motifs of the kimonos. Kimonos made out of stunning silk satin damask or crepe silk and embroidered with dazzling floral motifs in gold and silver threads show how the garment became a means of displaying affluence among different classes during a period of economic growth and urban expansion in Japan.As the country opened its doors to greater imports of all kinds and Japanese culture reached new audiences around the world, the kimono also experienced major transformations. During the Meiji period (1868-1912), kimonos were increasingly made out of new materials and produced in greater quantities. Wool and velvet versions appeared, as did those dyed and woven with new technologies. While Western styles of clothing began to increasingly permeate Japanese society, the kimono and other Eastern forms of dress became objects of infatuation for artists (like Vincent van Gogh) and fashion designers (like Jean-Charles Worth). Indeed, kimonos reflected the fusion between Japanese culture and Western art forms during the Taisho period (1912-1926). Kimono motifs were inspired by the Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles, thus providing a visual medium for Japanese women to show their adherence to tradition and their place in modern society. It could be said that the symbolic significance of the kimono has only grown, since it is no longer worn as an everyday garment (though Japanese elders continue to wear a kimono regularly). The kimono is now for the most part worn for formal and special occasions. Yet fashion designers, Japanese and Western alike, have continued to show their appreciation for the unmistakable aesthetic of the kimono, re-interpreting the garment in their own language. The avant garde designer Yohji Yamamoto deconstructed the kimono for his spring/summer 1983 collection, a piece that closes the exhibit at The Met. The kimono-like coat is made out of plain, black cotton, and is ravaged with tears and holes throughout, perhaps a commentary of the dark times Japan faced during U.S. occupation starting in 1945. For more information, visit www.metmuseum.org. The exhibit will run through January 19, 2015.