Linen’s Luxury Roots
Linen’s debut in the textile world came early. Some linen textiles appear to be some of the oldest bits of cloth on earth. Scientists have found seed-based fibers in Swiss lake dwellings that date back to about 8000 BC. Other Dyed flax fibers were found in a prehistoric cave in Georgia and could be even older. These are likely predecessors of the linen that is so widely used today.
Although people use the term “linens” to refer to a wide variety of cloth products, linen paper is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. The fiber is strong and absorbent, but the labor required to produce linen is intensive. The perfect, luxurious linen begins with perfect growing conditions and flawless harvesting techniques. The key to high-quality linen is long, strong fibers. The longest fibers are attained by the time-intensive task of hand-harvesting or pulling up plant stalks very close to the root. After they are ejected from the ground, flax stalks must be dried, and their seeds must be (mechanically) removed.
Next, stalks wait until late summer for “scutching time,” when the woody stalks are crushed between metal rollers, effectively separating stalk components. Fibers removed, flax bi-products such as shive, tow, and linseed can be set aside for alternative use. Further separation, called heckling, is necessary to separate the short fibers from the long, soft flax fibers. These long fibers are spun into yarn, ready to be woven or knit into linen textiles.
The laborious process of production, in combination with the cool, fresh result, makes linen so valuable.
Linen’s All-Star Stats
A few of linen’s impressive properties are well known. The ancient Egyptians realized early that linen felt cool to the touch, even in intense heat. The science behind linen’s coolness has to do with the high conductivity of the flax fibers. But the breezy coolness of linen isn’t the only major draw to this fabric.
Here are linen’s impressive stats:
Lint-Free and Pill-Free: Naturally lint-free, linen actually gets smoother and softer the more it is washed.
Limited Elasticity: Because of the lack of stretch, linen is pleasantly stable for sewing.
Natural Luster: The level of luster in a fabric describes how its reflective properties affect its visual appearance. Linen has a high level of luster, and a natural shine.
Natural Colors: Linen looks lovely without any artificial dyes. Natural colors include ivory, tan, and grey, though true white hues can be reached with extensive beaching.
Absorbing and Losing Water: This fabric has the unique property of absorbing water readily but also losing it rapidly when desired. It also doesn’t feel overly damp to the skin when wet.
Durability: Linen is a strong fabric, and though it doesn’t stretch, it is quite resistant to abrasion damage. It also has the rare property of being stronger when wet than it is when dry.
Moth and Beetle Resistant: Linen naturally repels pests like moths and beetles.
Dirt and Stain Resistant: To add to its low-maintenance qualities, linen fibers resist dirt and other stains.
Because of these amazing properties, linen has gained permanent, widespread popularity in a variety of fiber markets. But linen’s impressive performance doesn’t stop here. The environmental friendliness of the fabric gains points with designers and consumers alike
Environmental Impact
Linen farming and fertilization use considerably fewer fertilizers and pesticides than cotton and similar crops, and many flax crops meet organic standards (whether they have certification or not). Linen is also one of the most biodegradable fabrics ever to enter the textile market. When left undyed, linen is fully biodegradable.
Our Stylish Linen Favorites
Many luxury designers use linen to build high-end styles that are as comfortable as they are practical. Here are a few of our favorites.
THE ROW Matea Linen-Blend Trousers
These luxury linen trousers show linen’s versatility, fitting for the office or more formal occasions.
Everlan’s take on the linen shirt is an airy, timeless look, available in three colors.
Burberry Soho Linen Trouser Shorts
These solid-weave shorts make linen look good. With side and back pockets, these shorts don’t sacrifice practicality for quality.
REISS Enid Button Through Summer Dress
The Enid summer dress by Reiss rounds out our linen showcase with a delicate, slim-top dress with an elegant self-tie waistband.
Linen hasn’t gone out of style since it arrived on the scene in the early days of textile production. Its luxurious, desirable properties and environmental responsibility make this textile a sustainable, stylish choice for designers.
Learn more about environmentally friendly materials below: