Lingerie Lace: The Fabric of Femininity

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April 28th, 2014
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12:05 PM

Lingerie Lace: The Fabric of Femininity

What's more feminine than lace on your honeymoon night? Lingerie. The very word brings to mind images of soft satin, velvet and lace caressing the skin in many sensuous shades and designs. Yet many centuries ago, the term ‘lingerie’ was loosely used to denote any type of underclothing that was worn beneath one’s outer wear. Even mentioning the word ‘lingerie’ in society was nothing short of a scandal because it was not considered polite to even hint at the existence of such underclothes, let alone acknowledge the fact that one was even wearing them!

The existence of such underclothing can be traced back to Egypt in 3000 BC. It is generally believed that the entry of chemises and corsets in Medieval Europe sometime between the 4th to the 15th century changed the way women looked at lingerie forever. Clothing was no longer something that merely adorned the body; lingerie’s role was not to cover the figure, but to create it. It began to be used to define the curves of a woman’s body and give the wearer a fuller figure. While the Victorians in England are credited for having innovated women’s underwear (or “drawers”), it was a certain Mary Phelps who is credited with creating the world’s first brassiere in 1913.

The word lingerie originates from the French word “linge” meaning “linen” but the term was not popularly used until the late 1850’s. During the Middle Ages, soft linens were worn by nobility for the practical purposes of modesty, hygiene and warmth. At that time they were bulky, uncomfortable and designed to flatten breasts while contouring the body in a female silhouette. In the 16th century, the chemise, petticoat and corset were designed to accentuate the female form, mainly to tease and entice men. It was considered scandalous in those days to even mention the word “undergarments.” In the 18th century, the design of undergarments became carefree and feminine. Pieces were tailored with artwork, embroidery and made from various fabrics like silk, lace, and sheer linens, all designed for elegance with intricate details. As the years went by, out went the stiff boned corset and in came a new corset designed to support better movement and allow for easier removal. However this new corset still manipulated the shape of the female body to enhance the breast, bottom, and tiny waist.

The beginning of the 20th Century is when “lingerie” truly came into its own. An American, Mary Phelps-Jacobs, patented her first brassiere lingerie design called the Caresse-Crosby. She sold her idea to Warner’s who first introduced the sizing for brassieres A, B & C in late 1935. The corset had changed to a shorter shape and softer material and allowed the breasts to have a more natural shape. From Agent Provocateur to La Perla to Victoria’s Secret, most brides on their honeymoons are adorned in lace from Sophie Hallette. The most classic, as well as the most unexpected laces, are born out of the combined talents of Sophie Hallette's designers and craftsmen. One of the world’s leading lace makers, since 1887, they are renowned within the fashion industry as the lace makers to turn to when you want to create a masterpiece.

Having created lace designs which range from the fine and delicate to beautifully weighty and embellished, it’s no surprise that designers as varied as Isabel Marant and Dior all choose the France-based, family-run business for their lace needs.