One of the world’s oldest fashion weeks, ModaLisoa saw in its 44th edition on the weekend. Within the luxury walls of Patio Gale, a selection of Lisbon’s best ready-to-wear designers sent their Fall 2015 lines down the runway to the show’s theme of ‘Curiosity’. Joined by some big names from Angola and Poland too, ModaLisoa’s 1991-origins made the biannual event one rich in European history – played out in the fabrics and designs on show. Here are the standout performances from ModaLisoa FW15. Miguel Vieira Portugal’s Miguel Vieira crafted a simply classic collection mixed with minimalism and solid tailoring. Luxury was dominant in the men’s and women’s wear show via the use of high necklines for women, and double-breasted suits for men in wools and silks. The color palette prevailed in beige, burgundy, brown, blue and black. Alexandra Moura Lisbon local Alexandra Moura showed a darker version of her mixed-sex collection last season with more black and neon hues and extra tribalism. "The strong cultural or ethnic identity of different primitive peoples," declared Moura, was the line’s starting point. Entitled ‘Primal (U) Nation’, Moura worked asymmetries and overlaying into fabric, with some inversions made too. Cotton, neoprene, linen, silk, denim, fleece and microfiber were prominent materials for Fall 2015.Valentim Quaresma Brass, aluminum and copper in matte and shiny finish were just some of the materials used by designer, accessories maker, sculptor, artist and costumer, Valentim Quaresma. In a bird of prey collection, neckpieces, shoulder wraps, arm bands and helmets appeared medieval but updated for modern times. Eagle wings, feathers and claws rounded out the eclectic materials mix. Ricardo Preto Portugal’s Ricardo Preto offered his ‘Quiet Riot’ collection on the weekend. Tedious, geometric cuts in flame-shades of red appeared on playful dresses, while tailored, boxy outerwear met with a muted of taupe and blue. Inspired by the "materiality and immateriality, between two-dimensional and three-dimensional depth extension" fur was a standout fabric, as well as sheer cloth and patchwork.Nadir Tati Angolan designer Nadir Tati looked to African textiles to mark forty years since her nation’s independence from Portugal. Tati took ankara fabric – which is often favored by African designers – in addition to a number of sheer evening looks, plus a full dress and matching headscarf in native Angolan style, to make her catwalk debut. Precious stones and handmade embroidery fleshed-out the formal gowns rendering them classically elegant. Luís Carvalho Dubbed ‘Dry’, the sophisticated collection from Luis Carvalho was far from parched. Carvalho took inspiration from the lightness and fluidity of the Thirties. Wide leg trousers for men met with sleek, V-neck gowns for ladies in black. Different shades of green, beige and neon mustard were the dominant colors dyeing the return of Carvalho fabric go-to’s: fur, Cupro, Cotton and Wool.
Lisbon Fashion Week 2015 : 'Curiosity' Plays On Fall Fabrics
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March 19th, 2015
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