Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan Pallavi Mohan is renowned for her pattern work and lighter hues, under her Not So Serious label, which she bowed in 2007. Mohavi studied art at Camberwell College of Art & Design in London, before pursuing a degree in Textile Design from Chelsea College of Art & Design. In recent years, it's her experience abroad that propels her back to Delhi.FW15 felt like a maturing for Mohan with darker tones offering sophistication to her detailed lace work. Mohan went largely Seventies this time, with highlights of Baroque-period glamor in prints and textures. Miniskirts, pussy-bow blouses in silk and thigh-high suede boots were updated under leather bomber jackets and wool minis, with strong metal hard ware details. In a throwback to the Twenties, Mohan added feather plumes on everything: the hems of dresses, blouse sleeve-ends and the linings of scarves. Then, she slipped on the arms of models, purple and Iris leather gloves, for a collection that evoked daytime sobriety with nighttime Gatsby-fun.BodiceThe Vogue India Fashion Fund 2014 winner, Ruchika Sachdeva graduated from London College of Fashion, before returning to India to set up her own label. Fall was modern and tailored. Silk blazers and cotton shirts with panels of Khadi (traditional Indian paper fabric) sat over billowy trousers and shirt-dresses with twill. Then more khadi, mixed with light wool for coats, appeared. The palette was New York-inspired with navy, white and olive creating a sense of urban ease. Sachdeva's fabric story play is crucial to her work. Her cotton-silk blazer for Fall was lined with silk under a matte cotton fabric, describing her version of hidden luxury. Prints were used for the first time, too - polka dots - using dye-resistant wax reminiscent of Batik spots - an Indian tradition. 431-88 Shweta Kapur is known for clean minimalism, but in the Japanese, abstract sense of the word. Graduating from the London College of Fashion in 201, her sportsluxe label is never without textile exploration, appreciating the flaws and cracks in the imperfect. Inspired by Kapur’s once falling down a manhole, 431-88's Fall collection offered sporty chic appeal. Rich in wool, crepe, Lyrca and cotton, the mood was clean and color down played with stark whites, black and the odd splash of red and orange coming through. Material technique including pleats on skirts, and fringing came on, as models wore symmetrical tailoring and mannish shirting layered with a cape. The little dresses feminized things under asymmetric outerwear big on tailored details. Kapur put more structure and time into her constructed pieces this season, reflective of the skills learned at Burberry. Other key fabrics were the woven leather skirts, leather patchwork on wool knits and crepe saris meshing out an Indian feel to the rather urban mood. Payal Singhal A Parsons NY graduate hailing from Mumbai, Singhal has been creating for the modern New Yorker and the Indian bride, since 2000. Last week, the evening wear star designed her Fall collection around French Chantilly lace, promoting lightness in fabric and translucent femininity. Accompanying the lace was organza, tulle and silk next to Victoriana embroidery on gowns and soft, Seventies jumpsuits. Formal gowns walked with layered bodices, adorned in gold appliqué brocade. There were floral outlines and A-line silhouettes with silky hemlines. Knots featured on kurtas (a traditional midi-dress with elbow-length sleeves), offsetting the pure French feel. Again, capes in chiffon were a big feature.