Meet the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Award nominees - Part 2

Editorial TeamEditorial Team
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March 22nd, 2015
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9:00 AM

The British Fashion Council will announce this week the winner of 2015's BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund. Michael Van Der Ham, Mother of Pearl and Osman are three of the six fashion designers vying for coveted prize. Forming part 2 of our Designer Fashion Fund analysis, S4S does a background check on these super-luxe creatives.

  1. Michael Van Der Ham Dutch designer, Michael Van Der Ham began his fashion life as an intern at Alexander McQueen and Sophia Kokosalaki, before taking a place in Central Saint Martins' MA course. The designer graduated from the Lulu Kennedy school of Fashion East in 2010, and since then, has established a confident look that is unmistakably his own. The Michale Van Der Ham collage dress has become a somewhat signature look and luxury staple for the modern woman, due to its patterned variability in color (black, yellow, red, orange and metallic and more) and material versatility (devoré, silk, lace and organza). Not forgetting its flexibility to change shape, walking the runway as A-line, perfectly symmetrical or somewhere in between. Van Der Ham has designed costumes for Bjork and Tori Amos, linked up with Swarovski for a collection, and providing garments for 2012 Olympic Games Opening Ceremony in London.Key inspiration, fabrics and prints AW12 saw dresses in total-velvet and one solid block of colour. Vintage floral prints bloomed on mini-dresses and cardigans in mixes of purple and orange; while knitwear carried collage prints in chunky wools. SS12 saw more vintage-mix prints in pink, orange, lilac and grey, made from abstract brushstrokes, confetti and feathers. AW14 took inspiration from the 60s. Blue shift dresses housed embellished crystal florals and sheer-chiffon appliqué. Pencil lace dresses held contrasting sleeve and hem underlays, raw silk layers housed un-bud blooms, and velvet-paneled party frocks rocked the runway. Then, raw silks and more lace came spliced at sleeves and hemlines. Most recently, SS15 saw the designer return to his heritage collage dresses again with sequins and shiny pailletes. Lace pencil skirts sprouted paisley prints this time, while handkerchief hemlines moved about under lace and multi-fabricated blouses.
  2. Mother of Pearl Founded in 2002 by sports-freak and stylist, Maia Norman, Mother of Pearl is a fashion baby heavily linked to the art and athtetic world - adding serious weight to the haute sport chic phenomenon. Over time, the former partner of Damien Hirst commercialised her multi-faceted approach to design in 2010. It was here that creative director, Amy Powney, came on board but her addition didn’t stop collaborative prowess of the brand. Artists are still the propelling force behind collection prints, which Powney then takes and works into the developed sportsluxe aesthetic of Mother of Pearl. Outside of the seasonal shows, Mother of Pearl has collaborated with special collaborations SHOWstudio, Garage Magazine, John Currin, Harrods and Other Criteria, to name a few. Mother of Pearl boasts cool- print sweatshirts, lounge pants, silk day-to-evening frocks and crystal-embellished coats. But the brand’s hottest selling item are their slip-on sneakers: simple canvas creations featuring the label's signature prints of the season.Key inspiration, materials and printsAW14 tapped the William Morris and Decorative Arts movement bringing modern shapes with crafty techniques and sports touches. Traditional prints mixed with intricate embroidery for Pre-Raphaelite era looks and needlework was adopted from New York’s Richard Saja. SS15 looked to 60’s singer Sandie Shaw and her embellished sacharrin-colored stage wear for inspiration, mixed with Mother of Pearl’s sporty aesthetic. Joggers, sweaters and flats combined with jewels, as well as minis and sequined kitten heels. 3-D collages, from artist Chris Moon’s discarded paintings, were also print inspirations. Mother of Pearl introduced its first bags a set of canvas clutches and a backpacks in 2015, as well as leather backed clutches is sugary hues.
  3. OsmanBritish-born, Osman Yousefzada graduated from Central Saint Martin’s in 2002 with a MA in Fashion Design. Debuting in 2007, his namesake brand Osman was formed, making itself synonymous with art, fashion and architecture. Taking inspiration from ancient cultures and their costumes, Osman mixes the exotic with sharp tailoring for women, which has seen him dress Beyoncé, Kristen Stewart and Emily Blunt. Twice a year, the designer curates a collaborative journal, The Collective, which draws on his own circle of fellow artists and writers featuring photography and essays. In February 2008, he showed his collection for the first time at London Fashion Week, when he was awarded NEWGEN Sponsorship. In 2008, Osman he launched its Little Black Dress collection for Mango was most recently shortlisted for a Frieze Art Award last year. Key inspiration, materials and printsSS10 saw White tunics and funnel-necked coats sport square pockets of gold fabric, while neck-to-ankle white dresses fell to the floor. Key pieces included dresses with silk-laced gold rivets, high-waisted full-legged trousers, fan-fronted jackets and wrapped chiffon skirts. AW14 saw artful references for trompe l’oeil drawings, which were hand-drawn, inspired by jet-set bohemia. Key looks included skirts and frocks with hems with asymmetric splays, bejeweled mesh vests, slips ottoman-tile brocades, and the silk scarves with tassels. More recently, SS15 continued modern bohemia. Architectural silhouettes were balanced with crafted details: pearls, cameos and fringing. Key pieces included a strapless baby pink frock, slash-neck playsuit, and patchwork dresses; while ponchos walked with silver, thickly woven strands sloping down the back.  The Designer Fashion Fund AwardShortlisted by the Fund Judging Committee, which this year includes Naomi Campbell and the wife of the British Prime Minister, Samantha Cameron, the nominees were chosen for their potential "to develop into a global designer brand" and represent the best of London's bolstering fashion talent. Another designers in running, as featured in our BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund award nominees - part one, include Emilia Wickstead, Holly Fulton and Mary Katranzou.The 6th BFC/Designer Fashion Fund winner will be revealed March 24th.
Keyword Wool.