Merino Wool Features In Men’s Summer Collections

Editorial TeamEditorial Team
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June 23rd, 2015
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9:00 AM

As London Collections Men wrapped up its Spring/Summer 2016 edition in the English capital this month, merino wool was seen intrinsically worked into many luxury collections, despite the fabric being typically associated with winter.

A promoter of Australian and New Zealand-farmed merino wool, the Woolmark Company continued its work with local London designers; those passionate about the fleece-derived, natural yarn - in the summer months. By partnering with designer talents Lou Dalton, Richard James and Sibling, Woolmark continued to explore merino wool and its place in contemporary men's fashion. “It’s a thrill to be able to witness what these three labels are able to do with wool. Each designer has put their own stamp on the fiber, working with its natural qualities to produce fashion that is at the forefront of menswear today,” said Woolmark chief strategy and marketing officer, Rob Langtry, from London Collections: Men in June. In preparing and sourcing for their latest men’s collections, all three designers exchanged creative ideas with fabric artisans, gaining valuable know-how about wool, while enhancing the overall aesthetic and practicalities of the natural fiber in the summer seasons. Focusing specifically on merino wool, Lou Dalton, Richard James and Sibling defied pre-conceptions of the cozy fiber’s irrelevance for the warmer season. By showcasing its luxury qualities and natural performance attributes - in tailored, sporty and casual urban looks - the three labels offered smart lightweight suits and casual separates, and even knitwear, for the summer gentleman. “Wool is a fantastic fabric to work with, so it’s always been a big part of what we do," explained Toby Lamb, design and brand director of Richard James. "There’s a lot of tropical-weight wool in this collection. And there are some beautiful wool blends. Both the tailoring and casual wear is beautifully light and we couldn’t have achieved that without wool.”  In a collaboration with Savile Row’s Edward Sexton, the collection from Sibling included bespoke suits and trousers made with wool sourced from Luxury Fabrics. In addition, there were parkas using the same fine merino, adding a sporty urban contrast typical of Sibling styling; a strong juxtaposition against the heritage intricacies of London tailoring.

“Sibling is really all about knitwear; it’s our starting point and the brand DNA since launching in 2008,” said Sibling co-designer Cozette McCreery. “For Spring/Summer we’ve worked with fine merino wool so that there is warmth and yet a lightness. What’s really new and what we are most excited about is that we are doing tailoring for the first time ever – proper suiting.”

Men’s wear tailor, Lou Dalton offered her signature contemporary classicism mixed with well-crafted garments that are both precise and forward thinking. This season, Dalton sourced her merino fabrics from Lanificio Cerruti and laser printed the woolen knitwear.“Back when I was 16 and working for a bespoke tailor I came in contact with some of the finest wools in the world and from there on I was hooked,” explained Dalton. “I'm obsessed with wool, the nature of it, how it's evolved with time, what you can do with it. Wool plays a big part in the collections I produce.  “I'd be lost without it.”