Milan Fashion Week: Key Fabric & Prints For AW15
Milan fashion week mixed traditional craftsmanship with a bit of cheek for AW15. From Gucci's romantic classicism to the vampy, emoji collection from Versace, the Italian city went to the Sixties and Seventies and back to the future again, mixing up silhouettes and fabrics across the decades.
- Gucci
Turn of the century romanticism was the
theme at Gucci. Opening with a sheer, high-neck blouse that was ruffled at the
neck, a gently pleated red leather skirt and flat sandals, there was less
glamor compared to previous seasons.
Botanical floral prints featured on
chiffon dresses constructed in tiers and military redingottes represented past times. Fur coats
carried colored fur trim cuffs, while floral prints emasculated potentially
macho men’s suiting. Silk bows stuck to classic brooches adding a girly touch
next to lace camisoles, while French berets in wool and Italian leather loafers
served as European icons. The Gucci color palette was subtle, too; persimmon,
red currant, moss and black with the odd metallic accent.
Fabrics and Prints: Sheer lace / Sheer net / Chintz cotton / Intarsia /
Velvet / Piping / Fur cuffs / Zigzag / Botanical florals2. Alberta FerrettiInspired by Renaissance
paintings, Alberta Ferretti retold the charm of fairy tales in the woodlands. Folkloric
dresses fell to floor lengths with ruffle necks and lace hems, while cropped
cocktail frocks fell for ruffles and floral appliqués. There were Riding Hood
capes edged with fur, and lustrous brocade was worked into everything: coats,
trousers, A-line dresses and knee-high boots. White
lace dresses and rich velvet gowns were covered in gilded metals, contrasted against organic crochet cardigans and tapestry jacquard skirts. Key colours were black, white, red and gold for a classic,
timeless palette.
Fabrics and Prints: Tweed / Fur / Silk / Chiffon / Organza /
Leather / Shearling / Gold embroideries / 3-D embellishments / Crochet / Wool /
Velvet / Brocades / Renaissance paintings / Florals
3. Prada
The Prada silhouette was Sixties this season but with a
Naughties fabric twist. A-line skirts, babydoll dresses, arm gloves, and
cropped flare pants were freshened in synthetic fabrics like technical jersey
made to look like neoprene. Feminine suits in dark yellow and pink, tweed jackets
in teal and cropped trousers arrived, followed by skirts and double-breasted
swing coats. Satin double-straps hit go-go boots, along with leather bowling bags.
Empiric tunic tops and embellished frocks tied with mink bows on shoulder
straps, exemplified the mixing of high and low-end fabrics. Pastel blue,
pink, orange, blue, grey and lime were key colors - made miniature on bows,
plastic floral brooches, leather and beaded embroidered flowers.
Fabrics
and Patterns: Technical jersey / Colored herringbone /
Ostrich leather / Floral appliques / Herringbone / Ostrich
- VersaceDubbed '#Greek', Donatella Versace’s sequined mini dresses and flared trouser suits reminded
all of her love for glamor and the power of social media. Sheer frocks carried
the label’s name – V-E-R-S-A-C-E, intermixed with emoticons, @ signs and hashtags.
Strong primary colors bounced of basic black and white, as chic mini-frocks
were paired with thigh-high patent leather boots and rollnecks. Cut and slashed
tailoring carried pinstripes, layered over Versace-logoed blouses, while stockings
sat under cinched waists with wide belts. Sixties-style capes in neon red and bright
yellow lead the furore; while furs were dyed to match colored layers nestled
underneath, revealed as the models pounded past.
Fabric and Prints: Suede / Shearling / Leather / Patent
leather / Wool / Fur / Embroidery / Sequins / Jersey / Quilting / Versace logo
/ Zig-zags / Hashtags / Emoticons