Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Material Trends for AW15
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Editorial TeamJanuary 29th, 2015
|9:00 AM
With the poise and physique of an Italian stallion, Milan Fashion Week for men drew to a boisterous close last week, with critics left so impressed to the level of exclaiming, "Bravo, bravo!" from the front row. Following a competitive display of menswear talent, we handpicked five standout lines from the official MFW schedule with a focus on those who showcased an exquisite and innovative use of fabric and prints for the upcoming AW15 season.
Fendi
Italy’s Fendi launched a collection that had fun with standard materials, portraying innovative textures and fabrications for its luxury
menswear offering in Milan. Lead by Silvia Venturini, Fendi’s crafting of material
worked across shearling, which was eroded in parts to look like corduroy. 3-D
pinstripes walked laser cut and fur came brushed and looked spiked on hooded
jackets. Continuing the fabric rush, shearling came again, peering over sweater
seams while patches of corduroy were stamped on tailored blazers and outerwear.
Classic Harris Tweed suits and suede trenches were worn with sport-look
shearling jackets and short-legged trousers. More casual key piece at Fendi
AW15 were the reversible coats, striped knits and long scarves with gigantic pockets.
Materials in this article
Grey Vegetable Tan, Goat Leather
$ 15.00 / SqFt
From United States
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Key fabrics and prints: Wool / Leather /
Fur / Shearling / Corduroy / Tweed / Suede / Patchwork / Pinstripe / Needle
punching/ Stripes/ Monster motif
Ermenegildo Zegna
The Ermenegildo Zegna show space was transformed into a rain
forest retreat before creative director, Stefano Pilati, sent his
Zegna SS15 collection down the runway. City-meets-nature was the theme for the
Italian suit brand as classic checked overcoats and bomber jackets rocked a silver-look finish, which shined under the bright tree lights. Formal wear
continued with brushed velvet suits worn over tonal-colored turtlenecks.
Meanwhile, strange pairings arrived with sweaters adopting hard cap hoodies, as
well as jackets wearing zippers on the sleeves. Key pieces of the collection
included high-waisted trousers with tapered bottoms that reflected sporty
styles. Other highlights included printed rubber raincoats, 3-D quilted jackets
and a brown ombré overcoat. Coolness fought with traditional tailoring and both
were found to be winners at Zegna AW15.
Materials in this article
Rayon Chenille Sabi Space Ombre
$ 75.00 / Yards
From United States
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Stone Cotton 11 Wale Corduroy
$ 6.95 / Yards
From United States
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Natural Nylon Rayon Embroidery
$ 69.15 / Meters
From United Kingdom
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Key fabrics and prints: Wool / Brushed velvet /
Cashmere / Rubber / Nylon / Leather / Crisp cotton / Shearling / Corduroy / 3-D
Quilting / Zippers / Ombré / Plaid
Salvatore Ferragamo
Salvatore Ferragamo’s Milan collection took
inspiration from folk art and natural elements. Lead by Massimiliano
Giornetti, the AW15 range had a strong affiliation to the wild with coats and
blazers launching flying bird motifs and dandelions. Exotic animals such as owls, buffalos and
zebras ran over knitwear and tailored pieces; paired with long, chunky scarves.
There were big checks modernizing lumberjack coats and jackets; duffle-look cardigans
in white and camel; and shearling-framed leather outerwear came cracked and
faded. Rustic crafted knits were folkish with leather-stitched lining, while
distressed mohair jumpers followed down the runway after embroidered butterflies on blazers. The
final statement piece - a zebra patchwork on overcoats – made for a nature-inspired collection.
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Key fabrics and prints: Wool / Leather /
Lace / Shearling / Cashmere / Crocodile / Gabardine / Patchwork / Embroidery / Blurred
checks / Plaid / Animal motifs / Dandelions
Bottega Veneta
Slouched luxury was the theme at Bottega Veneta
under the creative design genius, Tomas Maier. The German designer showed
once again his love for modernity, effortlessly crossing tailoring and
sportswear. Strikingly tailored herringbone tweed blazers were worn with jersey
sweat pants, and rugged cardigan knits appeared unfinished despite the
luxurious wools used. Business wear came relaxed with open necklines and
unbuttoned collars, with some models donning loosely knotted silk ties. The
collection endorsed autumnal colours too with lilac, burnt yellow, washed pink,
mint and rust. Key pieces included corduroy trousers (cuffed), slouched
overcoats in plush fabrics, and sharp double-breasted jackets. It was a luxury that couldn’t be fussed at Bottega Veneta.
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Key fabrics and prints: Shearling
/ Suede / Brushed wools / Herringbone tweed / Cashmere flannel / Denim /
Corduroy / Velvet / Wool jersey / Fair-isle print / Geometric intarsia / Muted
checks
Jil Sander
From Milan, it was the first time Rodolfo
Paglialunga presented a menswear collection for Jil Sander. Known
for its minimalism, Jil Sander continued to be patterned-ly discreet offering
seventies-inspired outfits that rebelled against slim fits. Baggier and boxier
silhouettes were the look for AW15 with trousers carrying pleat details as
decorations to the waist. The clothes looked thick and heavy and warm, with
felted wools, cashmeres and shearling featuring strongly (also a huge trend
at London
fashion week AW15).
Tailored suits had workwear looks – adding a bit of thematic humor to the
show. For off-duty occasions, turtlenecks and polo sweaters were large and coloured.
Key items from the collection included raincoat-look coats and double-breasted
jackets with cinch waists. It was a collection of enormous proportions from Jil
Sander.
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Key fabrics and prints: Wool / Cashmere / Denim / Leather /
Shearling / Seventies synthetics / Drawstring / Stripes