Pineapple leather, banana fiber, hemp fibers; so many new innovations in textile design are cropping up, it is hard to keep track. While these are all great alternatives, some sacrifice the look and feel of genuine materials that consumers love. However, what if you could purchase a bag made with materials that feel the same, but do not require inhumane treatment of animals to obtain? That is precisely what one company, Modern Meadow, aims to achieve. About Modern Meadow Modern Meadow was founded in 2011 on the core belief that “biofabrication unlocks the power of nature to offer possibilities in design.” Modern Meadow is building materials with the help of life’s elements: cells, DNA, and proteins. The Modern Meadow team is made up of people from every corner of fashion and biotechnology, and is backed by some of the largest investors in the world; from Singapore’s Temasek Holdings to Artis Ventures, the company behind YouTube and several major biotech startups. Suffice to say, people believe in the mission. The Technology What exactly is the technology we are talking about here? It is fairly complex and multi-faceted, so we’ll break it down for you. Turning DNA to Proteins Modern Meadow’s technology starts with cells designed at the DNA level to create special microorganisms that produce essential proteins. This is called the “Design” stage, and lays the groundwork for cell growth. Cell Growth Then, through the process of fermentation, new cells are multiplied into billions of collagen-producing cell factories. These collections of new cells will eventually become the building blocks for materials. Assembling of Proteins This stage is highly dependent on what the end product will be used for, as proteins are assembled with a range of properties with differing components. In this final stage, proteins may be combined with other natural or man-made materials to create the final product. The Alternatives Biofabrication is changing the textile industry, but more notably, it is eliminating the need for precious skins, silks, and wool; all of which can be unethical to source. Here are just a few of the different kinds of alternatives Modern Meadow is looking to bring to the modern market. Spider Silk
Spider silk is stronger than steel, and sourced from transgenic goats that are bred to produce silk from proteins found in the goats’ milk. The North Face and Adidas have even used spider silk, and its popularity is continuing to rise. Mushroom Leather The main component of mushrooms, Mycelium, is a tissue that has been found to be a great alternative to leather. In 2013, MycoWorks began developing leather from the vegetative tissue. Victimless Leather In 2003, companies began experimenting with a phenomenon called “victimless leather”. This leather would be made from biodegradable scaffold, which is the result of mouse cells being turned into connective tissue. Microbial Cellulose Fashion designer Suzanne Lee founded this technology, where microbes would be turned into cellulose that closely resembles vegetable leather. The Importance Ethical alternatives to animal furs and skins are important to explore, and are worthy of further discussion. As the fashion industry becomes increasingly aware of its footprint, more consumers will be on the hunt for products that not only look good, but make them feel good. The modern consumer wants to know they are making a positive impact. They enjoy giving themselves a pat on the back when they make a sustainable choice, and this is something luxury designers should be capitalizing on. After all, it attracts new business and is the perfect opportunity to align their brand with a great cause.
While we still have a while before biofabrication is implemented by luxury brands, it is something we should be raising awareness for now. Imagine a world where no animal is harmed for the sake of high fashion. That is not something to be ignored. The technology is at our fingertips, it just needs the support to bring it to fruition. Our message to designers is to ignore the cost aspect for a moment, and at least entertain the option. Because, continuing on the way we have been all these years will cost us, and our planet, in the end.