1. Where exactly do you source your hides? We source all of our hides from North America, with the majority coming from the northeast U.S. A large portion of the hides come from meat and dairy farms around the Hudson Valley and New York state, and we prefer to have direct relations with the farms and farmers whenever possible. 2. What makes your sourcing environmentally sustainable?The skins are acquired locally as by-products from industries that would either discard them, ship them overseas, or else sell them to be used in less environmentally-friendly products.3. Pergamena is known for its vegetable tanned leather, what exactly does this process involve?Vegetable tanning is a method of producing leather using plant extracts. Some 80% of the world’s leather is produced with chrome tanning, which uses heavy metals and generates potentially toxic waste if done improperly. At our tannery, we use chestnut bark extract, combined with other oils and acids, to tan several different types of hide. We do all of our own water treatment in-house, and the process itself only creates biodegradable material and wastewater that is no more harmful than regular household effluent. It is a much more environmentally responsible process.4. What are some great ways vegetable tanned leather could be used in design?Among leather types, vegetable tanned is a much more personal and individual material than most others. For designers willing to embrace its more natural characteristics, it can yield a singularly beautiful bag, pair of shoes, or chair cover. In its natural, unadulterated state, the leather will age and wear with each person’s use -developing an incredible patina specifically centered around how someone holds, carries, and interacts with the piece.5. Are you working on any new exciting projects?At the moment, the majority of our leather projects center around the accessory and fashion industry. We’re currently producing material for wallets, bags, shoes, jackets, and several other similar products. We have been working on one product in particular with a local design studio, Materia Designs, helping them create a line of lamps with leather shades. They will be putting these on display at the 2015 ICFF in New York, which will be exciting for us to see.6. Any favourite leather brands or designers ?We have been working closely with several designers based in and around New York City for the past several months, all of which have unique designs, interesting stories, and their own brand of style and ethos that incorporate our vegetable tanned leather. One company, Outlast Goods, was actually started by members of our own family. Based in the Hudson Valley, they pride themselves in sourcing and manufacturing all of their goods in the region, which compliments both our process and our product at Pergamena.7. What does the future of leather and sustainable manufacturing look like? As long as animals continue to be raised and used for meat or dairy, tanning will remain an essential step in making sure nothing goes to waste. Even with the creation of synthetic materials made to look and feel like leather. It remains a uniquely durable, versatile, and functional material suitable for everything; from the fashion and interior design industries to book covers, hinges, and even protective wear. So, until firms can create something as strong and adaptable as leather, it will continue to be a practical and modern material for many design industries.
Nothing To Hide: Pergamena Talks Vegetable Tanned Leather
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May 1st, 2015
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