Paris Fashion Week: Men's Fashion & Material Trends For SS16

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July 6th, 2015
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9:00 AM

Paris Fashion Week looked to global travels, Fifties icons and urban sports for inspiration. From Valentino to Dries Van Noten the intricacies and expressions were in the fabrics and prints.

ValentinoMaria Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli created a Valentino gent dressed in an insatiable wanderlust. Oriental-inspired plants or patches adorned outerwear; be it souvenir jackets or military shirts. Forties Hawaiian shirting sat under leather bomber jackets- colour blocked in tropical tones. Denim made a huge impact dubbed the 'couture' aspect of the collection: hand-stiched, patched and dyed.Key fabrics from Valentino were silk-cotton, denim, leather, cotton, satin, scuba, cotton and cowhide. Big prints included orchids, camouflage, mythical embroidery and abstract florals.Haider AckermannDanger was the theme at Haider Ackermann, strewn across safari jackets and the waistline of slim cropped trousers. Low crotch skinny trousers in lurex felt pirate-y under open vests and light silk shirts. Key fabrics from the collection included linen, cotton, lurex, suede, silk, drill, wool, cashmere and satin; while embroidery, chalk stripes, window pane checks were the prominent patterns and prints.Dries Van NotenThe Fifties and Marilyn Monroe was the inspiration for Belgian, Dries Van Noten. Black-and-white, paparazzi-style Norma Jean photos came printed on double-breasted suits and boxer shorts, while sex icons lips and flashy eyes embedded onto knitwear and shirts.Key fabrics included cotton, jersey, silk, mesh, poplin, cashmere, nylon, sequins, beads, wool and velvet. Lobsters, leopard spots, palm print ditzy and carpet florals.Yohji YamamotoYohji Yamamoto released a 'caution, stripes, off limits' collection in Paris Day 2. Colourful markings – like reflective safety strips – slid up the slides of tailoring in red or yellow; while crinkled suits conversed with skeleton illustrations on cotton shirting and lightweight tailoring. Suits were the standout; primped with several darts at the back of jackets -  promoting perfect fall and motion. Key fabric included Japanese cotton, wool, linen, silk , leather, cashmere and jersey; while signature motifs were found in faded upholstery patterns and paint brush stroke collages.Louis VuittonThe modern traveler set the scene for Louis Vuitton. Creative director, Kim Jones used the souvenir jacket as his muse, embroidered with Indonesian birds of paradise, Japanese cranes and Lemur monkeys from Malaysia. The East-meets-urban collection also sported Fifties jockey jackets, onesies and jeans – cut in a glossy silk-denim blend with a textural red, white and blue appliqué for a perfect monogram.Other key fabrics included satin, kobe leather, organza-backed lambskin and coated cotton. Pebble dash camouflage and embroidery were signature patterns and prints.Rick OwensThe M-65 jacket was the key component of Rick Owens collection in Paris. Made from tooled or patent leather, Owens deconstructed the Vietnam War coats and reissued them. Shorter or knee length, some were more fluid while others were tailored.Key fabrics were leather, canvas, cotton, translucent leather and jersey; while prints looked like eclipsed suns and faded marble.Raf SimonsBlending the past, present and future, Raf Simons launched bell-bottoms in contemporary lengths, woven in heavy Melton Wool. Tailoring was Seventies, turned modern with zippers and shorts. Duster coats came with hand-drawn checks or embellished with metal grommets in diamond and chevron patterns.Key fabric from Simons included melton wool, cashmere, cotton, tweed, wax cotton, silk and madras check rounded out the primary patterns.