- Saint LaurentSaint Laurent AW15 in Paris saw former Dior Homme design head, Heidi Slimane, spin his signature indie rock web at the menswear offering from label formerly known as Yves Saint Laurent. In an nod to monochrome black, super skinny pants and tight turtlenecks walked Parsien chic, topped by snug, wool berets. Animal print stalked in leopard hues forming intarsia sweaters and square-shouldered blazers in the same print. Other motifs were zebra printed fur coats. Nautical stripes shifted the safari mood, with the Breton iconic print spread across tight tees and turtlenecks. Back to the wild, mohair sweaters and extra long scarves perched flowingly upon the lanky limbs of rock gods. Gloomy glamour went head on with sequin embellished harrington jackets and blazers; while mesh sweaters, and skintight leather pants with all-over zippers or metallic silver splices made for David Bowie looks. The silhouette, like always with Slimane, remained ultra slim acorss shirting and bottoms; while coat and blazers were boxier - emphasising the waif figures of the wearer. The key piece from Saint Laurent was the super-tailored leather biker jackets, already a hit in previous seasons.Key materials + prints: leather / silk / fur / satin / sequins / wool / crocodile leather / felted wool / Breton stripes / polka dots / leopard print / zebra print
2. Umit Benan
Turkey's Umit Benan took a gimmicky approach to men's style for AW15, sending non-models-turned-fishermen down the catwalk - fishing rods and buckets in hand - with bushy beards and greased hair against a video backdrop of the Bosphorus strait. Key articles included rubberized outerwear, protective parkas, wool overcoats and plastic padded bomber jackets, serving as a symbols of weather protection for the rugged man. Growing up in Istanbul, Benan planned on being a film maker before design caught his eye, and it was clear a story board was at play during the ten minute show. Leather and knit jogger pants marched utilitarian, oversized silhouettes, topped by robe cardigans and chunky cable knit sweaters. Tailoring came plaid with turtlenecks or spliced button-ups. Footwear and accessories continued the seamen theme with fisherman hats and beanies, heavy duty hiker boots, and bulk wool scarves. Key colors included canary yellow, pea green, marine blue, teal, dark reds and moody greens.
Key materials + prints: coated cottons / treated wool / leather / fleece / corduroy / herringbone / suede / compass graphics / spliced buffalo checks / plaid
3. Kenzo
Kenzo's head creators, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, launched their latest collection in Paris as a mèlange of British punk and the great outdoors - the latter adventure theme a common mood this season already at Milan fashion week and London Collections. Army green and earthy color palettes faced-off against tangerine, sterling metals and pungent blues. Anoraks hung over nylon trenches; Naravejo-shaped ponchos draped over coats; and hooded parkas smoothed over trucker jackets. Thin, plush fabrics issued warnings as safety slogans portayed tongue-in-cheek outerwear and knits. Blurred lines and graffiti-look camo dominated the main prints, making their way over shearling jackets, oversize sweaters and boxier sweatshirts. Sartorial suits came cropped and with utility oversized pockets and zippers for that little extra bit of industrialization. Meanwhile, acid-washed trucker jackets and jeans finalized the anarchy of the collection, reinforcing Kenzo's position as king of memorable motifs.
Key fabrics + prints: Wool / Jersey / Fur / Leather / Cotton twill / Mohair / Pinstripe / Blanket wools / Zippers / Collages / Stripes / Graffiti-like camo / Bleached effect / Slogans / Lettering
ValentinoValentino took things back to the Ballets Russes, reawakening nostalgia for the early 20th century dance company, known for its collaborations with artistic greats, Pablo Picasso and Coco Chanel. Following the Valentino 'white' haute couture show in New York late last year, Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri presented another timely collection. The duo teamed up with young Australian artist, Esther Stewart, whose signature geometric paintings influenced graphic patterns on tailored overcoats, parkas, bomber jackets and knitwear, as well as the lush carpet in the show venue. "We try to be like a modern artist’s factory,” Chiuri told reporters backstage. “We test ourselves and our creativity with new elements. At the same time, we don’t want to forget our heritage in haute couture.”From gray coats to muted colors on leather blouson, geometric motifs came layered. A textured wool coat with irregular horizontal stripes split open for sights of a contrasting patterned sweater. Meanwhile, oversize patch pockets color-blocked on sweaters and outerwear. A standout piece arriving as a zip-up coat with caramel leather pockets. Butterflies and celestial skies were prominent motifs on off-duty looks; while traditional British heritage fabrics soaked up obscure gray microchecks with a printed flower overlapping the lapel and a camouflage patterned lining. Details reigned supreme.Key fabrics + prints: Tweed / Shearling / Denim / Leather / Cashmere / Utility Cottons / Herringbone / Crisp cotton / Silk / Wool / Embroidery / Geometric blocking / Camouflage / Butterflies / Owl wings / Plaid
Louis Vuitton France's Louis Vuitton looked to London this AW15 collection, honoring UK designer Christopher Nemeth and his handmade clothes, which set the scene for the deconstruction trend popular in the 80s. Marking 130 years of Louis Vuitton's retail operation in Britain, creative director Kim Jones seemed to worship Nemeth’s hand-drawn rope motif, modernizing it with square versions into Vuitton’s Damier canvas. Jones went on to show off intricate craft techniques that stitched their way over clothes. These included circular textile motifs in cork and paper on sweatshirts and canvas jeans-style jackets; as well as giant-scale versions sitting over duffle and pea coats in camel tones - the tan outerwear becoming the key looks of the LV show. Meanwhile, indigo cashmere arrived needle-punched into skinny jeans with motocross knees and big cuffs, and outdoors parkas were squared with orange-colored panels, offering a refined sportiness to the power-decade range.Key fabrics + materials: Wool / Nylon / Leather / Cashmere / Shearling / Jersey / Utility cottons / Denim / Embroidery / Quilting / Christopher Nemeth rope motif / Windowpane