Fendi
Michael Kors
The New Yorker went for a theme of Seventies geometry with a mink intarsia oversize coat in muddy brown and white and sequin geometric tea dresses. Contrast-collared shirt dresses in cotton and silk kept the hexagons coming, next to tailored blazers, pleated skirts and cropped kick flares in caramel and neon red. Other key fabrics were suede, silk jersey and jacquard.
MM6 Maison Margiela
Eccentric utilitarianism collided with the everyday at MM6 Maison Margiela, at resulting in an array of contrasting textures and materials for the Parisian house. The superficial glitter of outfits in silver, gold and black and sequins were softened by pleated skirts in knee-length silks. Adding to the factory feels were Seventies psychedelic floral patchworks and paint splattered coated cottons. Other key fabrics were faux leather, synthetic shearling, cotton drill and jersey.
BOSS
Powerful and sleek was the theme for Jason Wu's Boss collection. Impeccable tailoring in smokey grey wool sat next to colour-blocked muted blacks and whites; the most evident print-like texture was a jacquard knit dress in icy blue and white that looked flowy zebra stripes. Other key fabrics were wool crepe, cotton, leather and silk.
Preen
The Eighties returned for Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi's Preen. Bold stripes such as Bretons were lined along floaty silk tops, as well as graphic prints with hints of pink. Sailor dresses felt French next devore blouses in lace trims, and floor-length knitted dresses in maxi lengths matched the outerwear trenches in deep navy. Other key fabrics were viscose satin and silk chiffon.
Max Mara
The Italian fashion house took inspiration from London with heavy referencing to WWII-Britain and the richness of Mayfair and the brawler acts of Hackney. Pinstripes cloaks, leather culottes and mink headgear in black resembled East London boxers while powder pink suiting cascaded in silk for the sophisticated Central Londoner. Key fabrics were leather, wool, cashmere, silk, coated cotton, fleece, fur, crushed silk, metallic fabric, double face, wool crepe and silk georgette.