Silk Brocade: Timeless Luxury

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January 22nd, 2015
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8:00 AM

Silk brocade was once the fabric of choice for ancient Chinese rulers and European Renaissance nobility. Today, the fabric continues to enchant with its versatility and exceptional quality. New colors and designs in silk brocade allow fashion designers to use the fabric in new and exciting ways.

Brocade fabric has a rich history that dates back to China's Song Dynasty, 960 to 1279 AD, a period known for the emergence of a unique silk brocade artistic style, referred to as ‘Song Brocade’. Brocade refers to Jacquard-woven fabric, commonly decorated in floral or Persian-like designs. The word comes from the Italian term broccato meaning embossed cloth. It is traditionally woven on a draw loom, using the supplementary weft technique (a supplementary weft is added to the base weft, which holds the warp threads in place), to produce the brocade design. This technique gives the illusion that the decoration is embroidered onto the fabric.During the Middle Ages, brocade fabric was restricted to the noble classes in Asian Countries and ancient Greece, where it was a desirable fabric amongst the wealthiest Byzantines. It was this culture, too, which capitalized on the discovery of silkworms and silk fabric, becoming the central producer in the Western world of silk brocades, damasks, and other tapestry-like fabrics.  The Late Middle Ages saw European nobility absorbed in activities of highs society that became perfect opportunities to exhibit luxurious fashion. Silk brocades from Italy, which more often than not included gilded threads, would be the fabric par excellence. Italian weavers began to create more intricately decorated silk fabrics, indicating advancements in silk-weaving looms. Garments in wool and silk became the fashionable choices during the Renaissance, while satin, velvet, and brocades were also only made available to wealthy and noble classes in accordance to sumptuary laws that dictated who could wear certain kinds of fabrics. Materials in this article

Hand-Embroidered Silk - Mumtaz

              $  391.00 / Yards                

<p class="country">From India</p>

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Brocade in general and silk brocade in particular went in and out of fashion beginning in nineteenth century. The fabric was no longer a staple in men’s clothing, for example, and was moderately used by women, save for special garments and evening gowns. Silk brocade has appeared time and again in contemporary fashion. More recently, there was a resurgence of brocade fabric in the fall/winter 2012 shows. For the Louis Vuitton collection, Marc Jacobs modernized brocade fabrics by embellishing them extra large holographic stones. That same season, New York-based brand Proenza Schouler designed asymmetric, Eastern-inspired yet city-cool brocade miniskirts and dresses.Perhaps it is the Italian luxury house Dolce & Gabbana who has proven time and again the continued relevancy and potentials of silk brocade. Over the years they have reinterpreted the fabric in their signature designs evoking Sicilian romanticism and beauty. In recent seasons, silk-blend brocade hourglass dresses, in a stately burgundy or black, with vibrant floral prints have brought the elegance of the Italian Renaissance to the contemporary stage. For fall/winter 2014, the design duo created a collection fit for a chic wonderland fantasy using a celestial blue silk brocade fabric in a dress and skirt accentuated with jeweled, velvet, and lace appliques.Varanasi Loom to Luxury is located in the 3,000 year-old city of Varanasi, India, known for the highest quality of hand woven silks. Loom to Luxury enlists the finest weavers in the area, providing exceptional fabrics to the world of fashion. The above examples of silk brocade show the vast selection of colors that span the rainbow, as well as the elaborate patterns that speak to fashion’s current obsession with print clashing. Case in point: Dries Van Noten’s Spring 2015 ready-to-wear collection. The collection is made to appeal to a modern, sophisticated woman who finds freedom and confidence in wearing the finest fabrics in patterns and colors that harmoniously clash. In the image above, silk brocade Bermuda shorts are matched with a colorful sequined top over a patterned organza shirt. The unexpected combination of colors, luxurious textures, and patterns transforms Old World exoticism for the twenty-first century.