Polyester is the most widely used fabric in the world. But it emits millions of mini pieces of plastic into our water supplies each time we wash it. Yikes! What are microfibers?
In 2018, the sustainable fashion blog Eco Warrior Princess reported the following: “In 2004, Professor Richard Thompson and his team at the University of Plymouth introduced the world to the environmental nightmare of microplastic pollution in our oceans and on shorelines, consumed by fish and other marine life and making its way into the food chain with potential impact for human health. Then in 2011, ecologist Mark Browne at the University College Dublin added to this field of knowledge when he found that 85 percent of the microfibres discovered on shorelines were human-made materials commonly used in synthetic apparel made from such fabrics as polyester and acrylic. He also found that a synthetic garment could release up to 1,900 microfibres when washed in a washing machine. Worse still, researchers at the University of Plymouth, found that a 6kg wash load could release more than 700,000 microfibres! Since some of these fibres aren’t captured at the wastewater treatment facility due to their size and abnormal shapes, they end up in our oceans.” In short, plastic-based fabric does not biodegrade. But it still breaks down: it decomposes into smaller, eventually micro, pieces. Pieces so small they can’t be filtered out of our drinking water. Pieces so small they get ingested by fish and livestock and thus by us. As sustainable fashion influencer Elsa Johnson reported recently for SUSTAIN Magazine, “according to a WWF analysis, we ingest one credit card of plastic a week through our food and water.” It’s unclear why the conversation (that is, frightening issue) of microfibers has only rather recently reached the general public. Since the above presented research, synthetic fabrics have continued to grow in popularity. As a result, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation has confirmed that over half a million metric tons of microfibers enter the ocean through the washing of synthetic textiles. A brief overview of the culprit: synthetic fabrics like polyester In chemical terms, it’s root is called polyethylene terephthalate, or PET. It’s a clear, strong, and lightweight plastic, derived largely from petroleum and natural gas. Since its synthesization in the mid-1940s, polyester has developed into one of the most popular apparel fabric materials for its cost-effectiveness, versatility and durability compared to natural fibers like cotton, linen, hemp, and silk. It’s how we make our favorite swimsuits and stretchy clothes. (With the athleisure boom of the recent decades, its demand has grown significantly.) Polyester’s synthetic textile sisters include Nylon (also known as Polyamide), Acrylic, Viscose (often referred to as Rayon in the US), Rayon, Fleece, Microfleece, Elastane (often referred to as Spandex in the US, and Dupont has its own version, known as LYCRA®), Acetate.* Some of these can be recycled. Recycled polyester can be made out of recycled PET plastics like water bottles or pre-existing polyester materials. It requires less energy to produce while also lessening our dependency on excess crude oil. The textile company ECONYL produces regenerated nylon, claiming that nylon has the potential to be recycled infinitely, without ever losing its quality. Its fabric technology has been embraced by many small apparel, swim and interior brands.
Consequently, in the pursuit of sustainable fabric, the development of recycled synthetic materials has inspired countless fashion startups that attempt to orient toward sustainability. Due to the stretchy and moisture-wicking quality of recycled polyester and nylon, these fabrics are popular for athleticwear and swimwear. Athleisure-esque companies like H&M-backed start-up ADAY produce a light jacket of recycled polyester. Startup swimwear giant Summersalt makes all of its swimsuits out of fabric crafted from 78% Recycled Polyamide. Indeed, turning tons of plastic waste into fabric is a great idea: it redirects plastic from landfills and reuses precious resources. But recycled synthetic textiles may actually be weaker than virgin originals, and may be even worse contributors to the dire environmental crisis of microfibers. Solutions
Restricting ourselves to natural fibers would be the best solution to combating this invisible but pervasive danger, of course. But a life without polyester seems baffling to the modern customer, especially as athleisure is arguably the new standard for contemporary apparel preferences—we love our leggings, in and out of the gym. And we love soft sweatshirts, neoprene workout jackets, and stretchy cotton-poly blends that let our bodies move. So, there are a couple tentative solutions to the microfiber/microplastic problem, which involve trapping microfibers in the washing process in order to prevent them from entering water supplies. Those concerned can purchase a filter to attach to their washing machine, or simply start washing their synthetic clothes in what’s called a Guppy bag, which absorbs the particles. Less dangerous to the water and food supply might be recycled synthetic products like backpacks, sneakers, and outerwear, because these items end up in the washing machine far less often. (Of course, it remains to be assessed if the production of these materials also sends huge doses of microfibers into wastewater.) And don’t forget: the way to truly be sustainable is to keep these recycled pieces for as long as possible before sending them to a secondhand pile or to a landfill.
*Source: Eco Warrior Princess