Why is there Still so Many Hidden Plastics in Clothes?

Although many are trying to limit the use of plastics as much as possible, there is one everyday item that still incorporates huge amounts of this problematic material: clothes. So much so, that synthetic fibers such as polyester make up more than 60% of the textile fibers produced globally. While some brands are beginning to turn to alternatives, a recent study has confirmed that 50% of fast fashion produced today is made from virgin plastic, indicating that the industry is still responsible for the arrival of huge volumes of new plastic on the planet. The world's biggest fashion brands are contributing to plastic pollution and the climate crisis through their continued reliance on synthetic fibers made from fossil fuels. As a result, brands need to tackle the fossil fashion problem by replacing virgin polyester with single-use PET plastic bottles that are being under-recycled. Using PET bottles is part of the industry's 'throwaway' manual of false solutions because it is a direct route to landfill, incineration, or pollution of seas and oceans. Big Fashion Brands “Addicted” to Synthetic Fibres from Fossil Fuels In a study conducted by the Changing Markets Foundation, they found that the biggest fashion brands are contributing to plastic pollution and the climate crisis through their continued reliance on synthetic fibers made from fossil fuels. The report, entitled Synthetics Anonymous: Fashion Brands' Addiction to Fossil Fuels, analyses nearly 50 major fashion brands. Among these, it assesses 46 of the world's supposedly most transparent brands, from fast fashion to luxury, including Zara, Primark, H&M, and Nike, on the presence of fossil fuel-based materials in their collections and their commitment to move away from them. In addition, the research analyses 12 brands detailed in the report, which examines more than 4,000 products in-depth, revealing that brands such as H&M and ASOS routinely mislead consumers by implementing greenwashing tactics. It also found that other companies hide the fact that their so-called "eco-conscious" collections often contain as much synthetic fiber as their main lines. For example, H&M's conscious collection contains an even higher proportion of synthetic textiles than the main collection. The report also found that while some brands are committing to stop using virgin polyester, they are not committing to stop using synthetic fibers in general. Fashion and its Dependence on Synthetics Fashion became dependent on synthetic materials from the 1940s and 1950s onwards, when nylon and polyester first appeared on the market, putting up a fight against cotton, wool, and silk. Fast forward to the present day and these fibers are easier to find than ever before. Tare strong, relatively cheap, and reliable fibers, whereas cotton and other natural fibers can be more affected by availability issues or by weather and climate change. Polyester is often blended with cotton and other natural fibers to improve its strength and durability, but this causes an additional problem when it reaches the end of its useful life. "It may be one of the worst options because it means mixing a natural material with a synthetic one. The qualities we demand of our clothes today also contribute to making it more difficult to remove all plastic from our wardrobes. It's a bit ironic, but we like to wear technical clothing to get out in nature. Synthetic fibers are used because they're very lightweight, because of their high strength and their ability to wick moisture. Sportswear and underwear are two other categories where it is difficult to do without plastic completely because of the importance of stretch.
Without a single brand ranked as a leader in its approach to synthetics; together with the greenwashing exposed in the report, suggests that the industry has a long way to go to contribute to tackling the climate and plastic crisis in a meaningful way. The report by Changing Markets urges brands to address their addiction to fossil fuel-derived synthetics, commit to ambitious climate targets and invest in truly circular solutions. Ahead of the EU's forthcoming textile strategy, the report calls on policymakers to take action to tackle the vast amount of low-quality clothing produced by the fast fashion industry and to ensure that brands are more transparent and accountable about their supply chains and the end-of-life of their products. In addition, measures are needed to crack down on greenwashing, which according to the research is completely out of control in the industry.