SMART Urges Basel Convention: Reject Reclassifying Used Textiles as Waste

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December 2nd, 2025
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8:00 AM

Uncover how SMART challenges reclassifying used textiles as waste under the Basel Convention, advocating for a sustainable circular economy. Explore evidence-based policy making and safeguarding legitimate trade flows for a resilient textile industry future.

The global textile industry faces a critical juncture as the European Union pushes for stricter regulations on used textiles under the Basel Convention. SMART is leading the charge against classifying secondhand clothing as waste, arguing that such measures could jeopardize the thriving circular economy. In a compelling submission to UNEP and the Basel Convention, SMART challenges the flawed data driving these proposals and advocates for a nuanced, evidence-based approach. The organization's stance underscores the immense value of secondhand textiles and calls for a shift in focus towards tackling overproduction and fast fashion. This article delves into SMART's key recommendations and the implications of reclassifying used textiles as waste on global sustainability efforts.

The Value of Secondhand Textiles in the Circular Economy

The debate surrounding the classification of used textiles as waste under the Basel Convention raises fundamental questions about the essence of sustainability in the global textile industry. SMART's argument that secondhand clothing is not waste but rather the backbone of the circular economy challenges conventional perceptions. The organization's emphasis on the value of secondhand textiles is supported by robust data indicating that a significant portion, ranging from 80% to 95%, of used textiles are reusable or recyclable. This data directly contradicts the prevailing narrative of high waste volumes in secondhand textile shipments, pointing to a critical need for a more nuanced approach to regulating the international trade of used textiles.

The implications of reclassifying secondhand textiles as waste extend beyond regulatory measures; they strike at the heart of sustainability efforts and livelihoods, particularly in the Global South. SMART's stance underscores the interconnectedness of environmental impact and social consequences, highlighting that mislabeling secondhand clothing as waste could disrupt the well-functioning global reuse system. By advocating for a shift in focus towards addressing overproduction and fast fashion, SMART not only defends the economic interests of millions but also champions a more holistic approach to sustainability that goes beyond mere regulatory compliance.

The Need for Evidence-Based Policy Making in Textile Trade

The call for evidence-based policy making in the textile trade, as advocated by SMART, is a critical aspect that resonates with the broader discourse on sustainable practices. The organization's submission to UNEP and the Basel Convention emphasizes the importance of distinguishing between reusable goods and actual waste within international frameworks. This distinction is not merely semantic but has profound implications for how the industry perceives and manages the flow of used textiles. By urging for a more nuanced approach that aligns with real data on the recyclability and reusability of secondhand textiles, SMART sets a precedent for evidence-based decision-making that transcends rhetoric and aligns with tangible outcomes.

The shift towards evidence-based policy making also reflects a growing recognition of the need to address the root causes of sustainability challenges in the textile industry. SMART's recommendation to focus on overproduction and fast fashion through strengthened Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) measures signals a departure from reactive, piecemeal solutions towards a more proactive and systemic approach. By redirecting attention to the true drivers of environmental degradation and social inequities, SMART advocates for a paradigm shift that places accountability and sustainability at the core of industry practices.

Safeguarding Legitimate Circular Trade Flows in the Textile Industry

The proposal to recognize distinct textile reuse and recycling flows, as put forth by SMART, represents a crucial step towards safeguarding the integrity of circular trade practices in the textile industry. By delineating between unsorted mixed collections, items sorted for reuse, materials sorted for recycling, and textiles sorted for repurposing, the organization advocates for a more granular understanding of how used textiles move through global supply chains. This nuanced approach not only enhances transparency but also fosters trust among stakeholders by ensuring that legitimate circular trade flows are protected from regulatory overreach.

The emphasis on safeguarding legitimate circular trade flows aligns with the broader goal of promoting transparency and accountability in the textile industry. SMART's recommendations to the Basel Convention to adopt a balanced, evidence-based approach underscore the importance of creating a regulatory environment that supports rather than hinders sustainable practices. By recognizing the diversity and complexity of textile reuse and recycling processes, the industry can move towards a more resilient and ethical supply chain that upholds the principles of sustainability and circularity.

Conclusion

In a pivotal moment for the global textile industry, SMART's resolute stance against labeling secondhand textiles as waste not only challenges flawed perceptions but also champions the essence of sustainability in a circular economy. By advocating for evidence-based policy making, SMART sets a compelling precedent for the industry, urging a shift towards addressing overproduction and fast fashion through nuanced approaches. As we navigate the complexities of textile trade regulations, SMART's call to safeguard legitimate circular flows resonates as a beacon for transparency and accountability. Embracing SMART's vision means not just redefining waste but reimagining a future where sustainability and ethical sourcing are the guiding principles, prompting us all to rethink our role in shaping a more responsible and resilient industry.